A few months ago, four new fragrances by Rosendo Mateu were added to the Aus Liebe zum Duft store: 1968, 1970, 1988 and 2010. The four eaux de parfum in the Olfactory Journeys line are based on formulas by Spanish master perfumer Rosendo Mateu, but the collection launched in 2023 was created by his son Joan. The line’s namesake, who only founded his own label in 2017 in order to realize himself and his ideas and not just work on behalf of others, sadly died far too early in 2022.
Rosendo Mateu’s olfactory legacy is extensive and lavish. Not just our own creations from the Olfactive Expressions line, which I introduced to you here a few years ago and which I will link to you afterwards as usual (only available in German). Even recipes that have not yet been launched still seem to be available in sufficient form, and the fragrance compositions that he has developed for others will remain with us anyway. So I hope that this wonderful brand will not slowly fade into oblivion with the death of Rosendo Mateu, but will gradually spoil us with further, as yet unreleased fragrance treasures from his portfolio, including in the Olfactory Journeys line.
Rosendo Mateu in the Duft-Tagebuch
- In Düften gesprochen – Rosendo Mateu – Olfactive Expressions
- Auf ledernen Sohlen – Rosendo Mateu – Olfactive Expressions No. 2
- Auf Blüten gebettet – Rosendo Mateu – Olfactive Expressions Nº 3
- Olfactive Expressions No. 4: Von Hölzern umrahmt – Rosendo Mateu
- Winterwonderland – Rosendo Mateu – Olfactive Expressions – Nº 5
- Olfactive Expressions – Nº 6 – Südseeträume – Rosendo Mateu
Olfactory Journeys – A fragrant journey through life
The Olfactory Journeys line is dedicated to the life of Rosendo Mateu and his very personal, fragrant journey. It is therefore not surprising that the creations are simply titled with dates instead of flowery names. Each of them represents a special event in the life of Rosendo Mateus, who was born in Arenys de Mar near Barcelona in Catalonia in 1945 and became one of the most respected and renowned perfumers in the almost eighty years of his life.
1968 – The beginnings
In the mid-1960s, Rosendo Mateu studied chemical engineering and got a job in an analytical laboratory in cosmetics research. This marked the start of his career as a perfumer, as the work sparked his interest in fragrances. In 1968, when he was just in his early 20s, he went to Grasse to study and learned the craft of perfumery from scratch.
The year 1968 thus marks the beginning of his successful career as a fragrance artist and the eponymous eau de parfum reflects this time, the landscape around Grasse and the impressions that Mateu gained there.
The 1968 creation contains the ingredients green notes, floral notes, spices, aromatic notes, tuberose, rose, musk, vanilla and woods. It is said to be “a fresh, floral, natural perfume based on the overwhelming scent of tuberose, which is refined and sensual”.
The flowers of southern France
Tuberose can appear in fragrances in one way or another. Mannerly, stylish and aware of a certain etiquette, or also rumbling, powerful, heavy and opulent. In my experience, all white bloomers have this characteristic and so it is always a bit of a surprise for me when I smell a fragrance with one of these ingredients for the first time.
But with a composition by Rosendo Mateu, I was almost certain that the night hyacinth would show its well-behaved side. And that’s the way it is. Fresh, green notes open the Eau de Parfum 1968, very bright, lucid and transparent, accompanied by fine, indefinable floral nuances, before the lovely accents of tuberose and rose gradually and quietly creep into the fragrance.
The former provides greenish-sweet facets, while the latter lends the creation additional floral lightness. The first base notes appear early on in the composition. Sweet, spicy vanilla and powdery musk underline the transparency and airiness of 1968 and bring the fragrance to a beautiful close.
A delicate and fresh floral fragrance with restrained tuberose and lucid rose, combining greenish and floral nuances. 1968 from the Olfactory Journeys line is uncomplicated, a pleasant companion for spring and summer that is carefree, light and youthful. Perhaps this is exactly what Rosendo Mateu was when he started studying in Grasse in the south of France at the age of just 23, soaking up the knowledge of the art of perfumery and laying the foundations for a truly masterful career. I can almost feel the mild breeze blowing over the fields of flowers around Grasse, which may have inspired Mateu to create this composition. A light and subtle unisex fragrance that can be worn on any occasion during the warmer months of the year.
1970 – Off to Paris
The fragrance journey continues. In 1970, Rosendo Mateu traveled to Paris and intensified his studies there. He also continued his education in Geneva and captured this special time for him in Eau de Parfum 1970. Paris in the 1970s was characterized by “sophistication, luxurious beauty, glamour and haute couture.”
The Maître Parfumeur translates this luxurious and sumptuous grandeur of the French capital into olfactory terms with the ingredients citrus notes, fruity notes, woods, spices, earth, chocolate, ambergris, musk, vanilla and tonka bean. The three keywords tonka, unfolding and glamour are on the label, and we can look forward to seeing how these are reflected in the creation.
Deep Dark Tonka
For me, 1970 is the tonka bean counterpart to D.S. & Durga’s Deep Dark Vanilla. The opening is initially surprisingly citrusy-fruity and a little pungent, which is a little confusing for me at first sniff. But soon, creamy, buttery facets enter the fragrance, which is darker, deep and earthy-spicy.
The fruity nuances gradually become weaker, giving way to tart notes reminiscent of dark chocolate, while in the background this mysterious, heavy spice cream is still siren-like and enticing. The first sparkle of tonka beans can be perceived. The black shrivelled bean displays all its olfactory facets beautifully.
From hay-like greenish to dark vanilla to the most wonderful coumarin nuances, the tonka bean shows its magnificent and glamorous side. There are repeated flashes of sweet, fruity accents reminiscent of dried fruit, before the melange gradually turns balsamic and powdery with ambergris and musk at the end.
1970 is the perfect fragrance for all those who love rather dark, warm, spicy and gourmand-creamy creations, who can hardly resist a combination of tonka bean and chocolate and who prefer elegant and glamorous compositions with a hint of sex appeal. 1970 strikes me as daring, somewhat lascivious and seductive, mysterious and a little enigmatic. For me, it is a perfect winter spice fragrance, unisex in my eyes, which almost makes me hope that there will be a drop in temperature and snowfall over the weekend. Because that would be the perfect scenario for this creation. 1970 is more of a fragrance for cooler and colder days, which on the one hand shows presence, while at the same time being finely balanced and rather transparently composed. An absolute must-try for tonka, chocolate and gourmand fans. 🤤 Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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