Obvious Parfums brand has recently launched a new fragrance, Un Oud. Those who have been following us here for a while may remember that David Frossard’s French label has been featured here in the Duft-Tagebuch on several occasions. Last about exactly half a year ago with the wonderful Corsica fig Une Figue. I was also allowed to conduct an interview with the brand founder.
I link you everything on the subject best in the following – in chronological order, of course:
- Obvious Parfums – The elegance of simplicity
- Une Vanille and Une Rose by Obvious Parfums – Nature and Luxury in Harmony
- Obvious Parfums: Un Patchouli, Une Fleur d’Oranger and Une Poivre – Three are not one too many
- Une Verveine by Obvious Parfums and Marque-Page by Ormaie – On the pulse of time
- Interview with David Frossard from Obvious Parfums
- Une Figue by Obvious Parfums – Head in the sun, feet in the water
So today we will talk about the ingredient that has been an integral part of perfumery for years. Which is actually so rare and scarce that one has to wonder what quantities must be on the market after all, as often as pure and natural agarwood is spoken of in press texts of oud compositions. Inflationary, the incense appears especially in combination with the rose, which is to take the heaviness from the agarwood.
On the other hand, more and more oud fragrances are appearing in which the scent, which is unbelievably lush at the beginning, has more of a supporting or accompanying function than a dominating one: gourmand and citrusy creations in which the agarwood is also allowed to show its shy, reserved side.
Un Oud – Obvious Parfums
I hope for just such an eau de parfum with Un Oud, because the Obvious Parfums brand actually stands for clarity, for simplicity, without sacrificing elegance and luxury. The fragrances in the collection are all straightforward and always to the point. I have reviewed all the nine fragrances tested so far with pleasure and delight. So I look full of confidence and anticipation to my today’s test candidate Un Oud.
The Nietzsche quote makes me gulp at first, it sounds very martial and doesn’t fit the mood that the brand embodies for me at first glance. Buuuuut, on second thought, I get to the bottom of it. As we all know, the raw material oud in natural form comes from the agarwood tree or Aquilaria malaccensis. Like any tree, if wounded, it secretes a resin to protect the injured area. Wounding and subsequent infection with a certain type of fungus causes the agarwood tree – for the purpose of self-protection – to synthesize a resin that has been used for thousands of years as incense and fragrance. And so the agarwood tree – like so many other living things – is a fighter that has found for itself ways and means to protect itself against imponderables and threats.
Perfumer Camille Chemardin is said to be responsible for the creation of Un Oud, which used the ingredients cardamom, bergamot, pink pepper, agarwood (oud), papyrus, sage, elemi resin, Virginia cedar, vetiver, saffron and leather for the eau de parfum.
A tribute to the agarwood: Un Oud
Un Oud starts subtly citrusy, rather aromatic-spicy with the greenish freshness and gentle spiciness of cardamom underscored by pink pepper. Early in the fragrance reveals the real protagonist, the oud. With its dark, resinous-smoky and medicinal notes, it absorbs the spicy-fresh pungency of cardamom, melding with it and adding instant depth to the creation.
In keeping with the style of the other Obvious creations, Un Oud is also not a rowdy, but always acts in a well-measured, elegant and stylish way. The greenish nuances of the opening are picked up by sage and elemi resin as it progresses. Papyrus and vetiver bring gently earthy aspects to the creation. The saffron also finally shows itself. Combined with leather, it makes Un Oud darker. The hitherto sometimes greenish shimmering fragrance eventually becomes deep black, a little rough and finally fades out in a soft woody smoky note.
Un Oud by Obvious Parfums is an eau de parfum that stays true to the brand’s lineage and signature. Despite the ingredients quite inclined to extravagance and opulence, the French niche fragrance label created an agarwood fragrance that is transparent, modern and incredibly elegant. A quiet and calm woody fragrance with greenish, spicy and leathery accents that fits perfectly in the office and everyday life with its medium presence and good durability. It exudes an almost meditative, somewhat pensive mood, seems powerful and fragile at the same time. Simply beautiful! For fans of quiet oud fragrances definitely a must-try and also for agarwood newcomers and beginners absolutely suitable. 🙂