Room 1015 unhesitatingly declares Kokoa Bang a non-gourmand fragrance. My nose isn’t quite so sure: the combination of juicy pear and dark cocoa clearly reminds me of Pear Hélène. However, the scent goes beyond this association. Sparkling champagne, creamy blossoms, and balsamic notes bring transparency and excitement to the composition. And this is exactly where the so-called neo-gourmands come into play.
You can read all about what Kokoa Bang really smells like and why the scent reminds me of Poire Helène in my detailed review.
What makes a fragrance a gourmand?
Fragrances that evoke something edible or drinkable are referred to as “gourmand” scents. These often feature sweet notes such as vanilla, chocolate, caramel, or honey. However, gourmand scents can also evoke the aroma of coffee, bread, roasted nuts, spices, or even savory dishes. What matters is not the sweetness, but the culinary association that a fragrance evokes.
Even a single ingredient like vanilla or cocoa doesn’t automatically make a fragrance gourmand. Vanilla can come across as dry and woody, while cocoa can seem dark and tart. It’s the interplay of the notes that determines whether we perceive a composition as gourmand.
And what is a neo-gourmand?
Neo-gourmands draw on familiar gourmand notes but give them new dimensions. Cocoa meets champagne, dates meet myrrh, pistachio meets leather, and vanilla meets tobacco or labdanum. This results in fragrances that may well smell like a dessert, but whose composition goes far beyond that.
The term does not refer to a clearly defined fragrance family. Rather, it represents an evolution of classic gourmand fragrances. Familiar notes are combined in new and surprising ways. Some neo-gourmands are light and airy, while others are dark, spicy, or distinctly sweet. What they all have in common is that they go beyond a mere association with desserts.
Five Current Neo-Gourmands
The following five fragrances show just how different they can be.
Kokoa Bang: Hélène Pear with Champagne
With Kokoa Bang, the gourmand facets are immediately apparent: juicy, vanilla-sweet pear and dark cocoa clearly remind me of Birne Hélène. Tart champagne and airy floral notes keep the fragrance light and airy, while myrrh and benzoin resin add warmth. This way, the dessert-like association remains clearly recognizable without Kokoa Bang ever feeling heavy or overly sweet.
Ain’t That Sweet: creamy, spicy, and surprisingly not sweet
Ain’t That Sweet by D. S. & Durga starts off dark, tart, and distinctly spicy. I can really pick out the nutmeg in particular. The scent then becomes creamier, milder, and softer. Milky notes, a hint of vanilla, and subtle doughy undertones emerge without developing a pronounced sweetness. Whether it actually smells like date cake, however, I can’t say—I’ve never eaten one.
As it develops, Ain’t That Sweet becomes darker, spicier, and more amber-like. Despite the dates, milk, and vanilla, the fragrance remains surprisingly unsweetened to me. It still strikes me as gourmand, however, because this impression is created less by sugary notes and more by the creamy, milky, and slightly doughy aspects of the eau de parfum.
Bachanal: Light and Airy Nut Cream with Pistachio
Bachanal opens with a fresh, bright, and airy scent. The pistachio is clearly detectable and is accompanied by a light almond note, which, however, does not resemble marzipan. The scent comes across as very soft, creamy, and almost fluffy. I perceive the coconut more as a delicate coconut powder that remains subtly in the background.
On my skin, Bachanal by J. F. Schwarzlose develops a sweet, lovely quality that reminds me of a delicate nut cream or a light, summery dessert. On a test strip, however, the composition comes across as somewhat fresher and greener. Despite its gourmand character, Bachanal remains airy and modern, without coming across as heavy or over-the-top.
Vanilla Affair: Dry vanilla with a golden warmth
Vanilla Affair by D’Orsay opens with a moderately sweet bourbon vanilla that feels dry, airy, and powdery. Tobacco brings golden warmth and slightly liqueur-like moments to the creation, while the tonka bean underscores the vanilla notes. In doing so, it develops creamy nuances reminiscent of hay with subtle nutty undertones.
The composition feels calm, almost contemplative, and delicately balanced. Over time, Vanilla Affair develops a gentle amber note, yet remains rather understated overall. For me, this Extrait de Parfum is therefore primarily a fragrance for cooler days when I crave gourmand-spicy notes. In Vanilla Affair, these notes are interpreted as dry, woody, and only subtly sweet.
Velvet Tonka Extrait: Tonka bean on soft suede
Velvet Tonka Extrait by bdk Parfums opens with a lush, opulent, and decidedly powerful scent. Nutty pistachio meets intense tonka bean, whose coumarin evokes hay and lends the fragrance greenish-spicy nuances. The sweetness is distinctly present, accompanied by a liqueur-like, creamy, and amber-balsamic warmth. Compared to Bachanal, the pistachio here comes across as significantly darker and more intense.
For everyday wear, Velvet Tonka Extrait would be too intense for me. I see it more as a fall and winter fragrance for special occasions. Over time, the composition becomes softer and more subdued. In the drydown, subtle, creamy suede notes emerge, rounding out the fragrance with a soft, gentle, and harmonious finish.
These five fragrances demonstrate just how varied neo-gourmand scents can be: airy and summery, dark and spicy, or dry and woody. What they have in common isn’t a specific sweetness, but rather the combination of edible impressions with floral, spicy, balsamic, or leathery notes. That’s exactly what makes neo-gourmands so interesting to me.
Do you think a gourmand has to smell sweet, or is a culinary association enough?
Be First to Comment