I had been eagerly awaiting this sample. Not only do I have a soft spot for the niche fragrance house Atelier Materi, but I am also particularly fond of tonka bean. The combination of the two raises high expectations and leaves me hoping that I am about to fall in love: Tonka Kumaru might just steal my heart – whether in a whirlwind romance or with quiet, understated charm remains to be seen. Let’s find out.
Atelier Materi on the blog
Of course, Atelier Materi is no longer an unfamiliar brand here on the blog; in fact, it’s become a regular feature. I’ve already published numerous posts here, and I certainly don’t want to keep them from you:
- Atelier Materi with Cacao Porcelana and Cuir d’Iris – aesthetic down to the last detail
- Santal Blond, Peau d’Ambrettes, and Poivre Pomelo by Atelier Materi – A Fragrant Trio
- Rose Ardoise by Atelier Materi – A bloom in slate gray
- Cèdre Figalia by Atelier Materi – Harmony and Elegance
- Néroli Hasbaya – The new Extraits de Parfum from Atelier Materi
- Burgundy Oud and Ambre Papier by Atelier Materi
- Vanilla Carbone by Atelier Materi – Three kinds of vanilla
The Joy of Tonka Beans – Tonka Kumaru
I don’t know, do you feel the same way? The name Tonka Kumaru has a wonderfully melodic ring to it. As soon as you say it, it sticks in your head and almost invites you to repeat it over and over again. In fact, it refers to the tonka bean tree (Dipteryx odorata), native to South America, which was called cumarú in the indigenous Tupi language.
This is also the origin of the term “coumarin,” the compound in the tonka bean responsible for its scent, which is reminiscent of vanilla and hay. Perfumer Céline Perdriel created the fragrance centered around the tonka bean. She has also been responsible for several other creations by the French niche fragrance house, such as Cèdre Figalia, Cuir Nilam, Ambre Papier, and Burgundy Oud.
Top notes: bergamot, almond, cardamom
Middle notes: barley, hay, cedar leaves
Base notes: tonka bean, vanilla, ambergris, musk
Tonka Kumaru reveals the tonka bean right from the start, accompanied in the opening by citrusy, tart bergamot and spicy, fresh cardamom. Almond and hay pick up on the protagonist’s characteristic facets and enhance them with greenish-creamy and subtly nutty nuances. Cedar also makes an early appearance. Here, it is not in the form of clean woody notes, but rather with cool, coniferous-fresh accents that blend wonderfully and harmoniously with the citrusy, spicy, and green undertones of the composition. In the drydown, the scent finally warms up again. Vanilla and ambergris provide balsamic, comforting moments, and here, too, the notes of tonka bean can still be detected.
For all fans of the black shriveled bean, Tonka Kumaru is sure to be a real hit. Very authentic tonka bean notes start out tart, spicy, and fresh, then become creamy-green, and finally sweet and amber-like, creating a very coherent, harmonious, and well-rounded spicy fragrance. More of a creation for the cooler months, yet one that can be worn for any occasion. An exceptionally well-crafted Eau de Parfum with which Atelier Materi expands its line of beautiful fragrances to include an enchanting new facet. Beautiful!
Short and sweet: Tonka Kumaru from Atelier Materi
Is Tonka Kumaru a gourmand fragrance?
Tonka Kumaru certainly has gourmand undertones, yet it is a far cry from classic dessert fragrances. The tonka bean is not sweet or heavy here, but is complemented by spicy, green, and woody notes. This gives the fragrance a balanced, modern, and very wearable quality.
Who is Tonka Kumaru suitable for?
This fragrance is designed for anyone who loves tonka bean and prefers elegant, harmonious compositions. Thanks to its complex structure, Tonka Kumaru is suitable for both women and men and will particularly appeal to fans of warm, spicy, and slightly gourmand scents.
Is Tonka Kumaru a good signature fragrance?
Yes, Tonka Kumaru has many of the hallmarks of a signature fragrance. The composition is distinctive and recognizable, yet pleasantly versatile. This makes the fragrance suitable for both everyday wear and special occasions.
What makes tonka beans so popular in perfumes?
The tonka bean combines multiple fragrance notes in a single ingredient. It evokes hints of vanilla, hay, almonds, and delicate spices. This complexity makes it a popular ingredient in perfumery, as it can impart warmth, depth, and a natural sensuality.
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