Atelier Materi has been a welcome guest on this fragrance blog for several years. Founded in 2019 by Véronique Le Bihan, the brand has always impressed me both visually and olfactorily – right from the start. Last year, the wonderful, classic line was joined by a collection of extraits de parfum, which I also presented to you here. With Vanille Carbone, the portfolio of the French aesthetics label has grown to a whole thirteen creations – which I think is quite remarkable.
Atelier Materi pursues a clear objective: each fragrance is dedicated to a single, carefully selected ingredient, which is interpreted in all its facets, abstracted and made tangible in a new way. The creations are the result of long development processes – characterized by a respectful handling of raw materials, craftsmanship and a minimalist aesthetic. My previous reviews are linked below:
- Atelier Materi with Cacao Porcelana and Cuir d’Iris – aesthetic down to the last detail
- Santal Blond, Peau d’Ambrettes and Poivre Pomelo from Atelier Materi – A fragrant trifecta
- Rose Ardoise by Atelier Materi – flower in slate gray
- Cèdre Figalia by Atelier Materi – harmony and elegance
- Néroli Hasbaya – The new Extraits de Parfum from Atelier Materi
- Burgundy Oud and Ambre Papier by Atelier Materi
Vanilla Carbone – Vanilla, rethought
Natalie Gracia-Cetto is one of the greats of modern perfumery. Born in Grasse and trained at Givaudan, she combines craftsmanship with a very personal olfactory signature. Her compositions are never overloaded, but always well thought-out, structured and often characterized by an almost architectural clarity. At Aus Liebe zum Duft you will find Orange X Santal by Essential Parfums as well as Odeur 10, Radish Vetiver and Scent Four: Yoyogi by Comme des Garçons. She is said to have created Legacy of Petra for Penhaligon’s. She has also worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior, Narciso Rodriguez, Tom Ford and many others.
With Vanille Carbone, Atelier Materi and Natalie Gracia-Cetti have dedicated themselves to a grande dame of haute perfumery: vanilla. This is not just another variation on common spice fragrances, but a radical reinterpretation – beyond patisserie clichés and creamy sweetness. Instead, the focus here is on the deep black side of bourbon vanilla: with its edgy, spicy and modern facets.
Vanilla is one of the most fascinating raw materials in perfumery. Obtained from the fermented pods of the tropical orchid Vanilla planifolia, it is one of the most expensive spices in the world – and one of the most versatile. Its fragrance facets range from creamy-sweet to smoky, from balsamic-warm to leathery and dark. The Bourbon vanilla used in Vanilla Carbone comes from Madagascar and is known for its round, sensual character. Its notes are extraordinarily versatile: In gourmand compositions, it has a soft and enveloping effect; in modern versions, it can appear woody, dry or even metallic.
It almost doesn’t matter what role vanilla plays in a perfume – whether it has an accompanying, underlining function or appears as the protagonist of a fragrance – it always brings depth, harmony and tension to a creation. In Vanille Carbone by Atelier Materi, black pepper, pink pepper, leather, incense and a triad of bourbon vanilla, vanilla and vanilla bean combine to create a powerful, multi-faceted and expressive composition.
Cool, fresh and dry, Vanilla Carbone starts the fragrance. The pepper has a gentle, almost citrusy sharpness and combines with a subtly smoky incense coolness to create a wonderful blend. From this, I sniff out the fine, spicy notes of vanilla early on: powdery, almost crystalline and with these typical olfactory facets. There is a hint of sweetness in the fragrance – subliminal and delicate, far removed from the sticky gourmand notes of some other creations, but still perceptible. Anyone who has ever smelled real vanilla – freshly scraped from the pod or as a dried powder – knows this scent: dark, profound, elusive and fascinating. I perceive these nuances in Vanille Carbone, but in a surprisingly light, transparent and airy form. In fact, the eau de parfum reminds me of white powder, of talcum powder. It has mineral, chalky notes that provide the perfect stage for vanilla to skillfully play out its seductive and special facets. At the same time, I also perceive smooth, shiny nuances that are probably due to the patent leather.
Vanilla Carbone by Atelier Materi is not your everyday vanilla fragrance, but an exciting and surprising interpretation of this extraordinary raw material. Even though I had initially expected a deep, dark composition – after all, the product text also emphasizes the “depth of a black vanilla pod”, “its deep black hue” and the play with “light and shadow” – Vanille Carbone is a far cry from the dark notes of a Deep Dark Vanilla by D. S. & Durga. I find the creation much more light, transparent and airy – infused with dark vanilla speckles. A composition that is suitable for everyday use and yet striking, with exciting nuances that can even make you think.
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