Rouge Chaotique is a new arrival at Aus Liebe zum Duft and as luck would have it, I also had Vanille Antique and Eyes Closed in my to-review box, which are still waiting for a review. What could be more natural than to pack the three fragrances in one post? Below you can see our three protagonists of the day, in whose fragrance tasting I will also plunge immediately. I don’t really need to say anything else about Byredo, do I? Ben Gorham’s Swedish brand has been featured here in the Duft-Tagebuch so many times that I’m simply linking all the previous articles here, and hope you enjoy browsing ☺.
Rouge Chaotique – Nights Veils
The Night Veils collection includes Rouge Chaotique as well as Vanille Antique. The line of Night Veils is characterized by expressive compositions created for the evening or night. And so Rouge Chaotique is also an extrait de parfum that plays with opulent and intoxicating notes. Saffron, lemon, bergamot, oak, plum, gourmand notes, agarwood (oud) and papyrus should evoke a thoroughly exciting and powerful fragrance.
An olfactory experience that leads to the realization that beauty can emerge from chaos. Everyone knows the studios of creative artists. There is often disorder, the proverbial “creative chaos” – and yet something beautiful emerges. The work of the artist, his creation. This interplay of order and disorder is the original idea of this fragrance.
The dark spicy notes of saffron meet delicate citrus fruits in the opening of Rouge Chaotique, soon underpinned by a sweetly liqueur-like plum fruitiness, making the opening of the extrait de parfum a real moment of pleasure. The smoky, medicinal accents of oud flow into the composition and merge with it, while acute oak barrel associations reinforce the impression of a somewhat tipsy creation. Leathery, earthy aspects are added by papyrus as the fragrance progresses. A good counterpoint to the gourmand sweetness that permeates the fragrance. Beautiful! 🤎
Vanilla Antique – Byredo
In the case of our second fragrance today, the main ingredient is probably already evident from the name. Vanille Antique means “antique vanilla”, which of course does not mean that we will have to deal with an old-fashioned fragrance. Perhaps it is a little nostalgic or classic-looking, but certainly noble and elegant, I am sure.
The fragrance notes are plum, musk, woods, labdanum (cistus), amber and vanilla bean, which already sounds very good. This creation also has plum participation. The dark purple stone fruit is often used as a liqueur and is reminiscent of pickled dried fruit. I am curious to see how I will discover the plum right away in Vanille Antique.
Very sweet and lush, Vanille Antique starts with the very notes that gave the fragrance its name. The vanilla is very present from the first sniff. Dark plum nuances join in, in a pickled-liqueur form. At first, the vanilla in the fragrance is very sweet, but soon it becomes more transparent. Powdery, crystalline musk adds a certain dryness and lightness. Creamy, light woody notes form a harmonious framework, which is underpinned by soft and warm amber. Overall, a calm and rather quiet extrait de parfum with a present opening. 🧡
Eyes Closed – Byredo
“Close your eyes and go through” is hopefully not the motto of this eau de parfum from the house of Byredo. On closer inspection of the fragrance notes, I am not overcome by any acute thoughts of escape, which is good in and of itself. Perfumer Jérôme Epinette combined for Eyes Closed the ingredients cinnamon, cardamom, iris, ginger, carrot, patchouli and papyrus. First, I notice that none of the previous creations featured iris and patchouli, which are, after all, among the usual fragrance suspects. For this, Eyes Closed once again contains papyrus, which otherwise does not necessarily stand out as a standard fragrance note. I’m looking forward to the carrot, the spices anyway, and I like ginger too.
As “an olfactory experience, completely imbued with feelings of connectedness and unconditional transcendent love” we may understand the eau de parfum, according to the press text. “The imagination is fired at the discovery of a new way of seeing – closed eyes, fused together.”
Powdery iris with distinct lipstick accents and citrusy sharp ginger open the fragrance, underpinned by subtle spices and creamy sweet carrot. Gradually, cinnamon and cardamom push out and become more noticeable, making the fragrance wonderfully spicy. The lipstick aspects slowly disappear, but the almost buttery iris creaminess remains. Patchouli donates light-woody and subtle-earthy moments, into which the sweetish carrot nuances are only too happy to fall. Very soft, restrained and gentle, Eyes Closed combines fresh, spicy and powdery-smooth nuances.
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