Just at the end of last year Pierre Guillaume wowed me with Tonka Bodykon No. 31 (read it here), today I will present you with L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1, an olfactory variation on the original tonka bean theme. And as if this wasn’t reason enough for jubilation, I also add an iris scent on top with Costume Liquide No. 14.2.
It should be spring-like to summer-like, that much I would like to forecast daringly, and thus perfectly matching the current major weather situation, season and my buoyant mood. And this, although in our first fragrance candidate L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1 actually a spice plays the main role, which is otherwise probably rather used in the cooler season. But combined with one of spring’s it-flowers, it could evoke glorious summer vibes…at least in my mind.
L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1 – Air and Love
With L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1 we dedicate ourselves not only to the tonka bean, but also to air and love. Because the Eau de Parfum could be based on this very phrase, which is common in German. But a little research quickly reveals that “living on air and love” does not seem to exist in this form in French and English. It’s a pity, really, because the air and love as the only source of nourishment is somehow incredibly romantic, isn’t it?
And yet we are dealing with L’Air, meaning the air, and L’Eros, desire or love, in this fragrance, which according to the press release is supposed to be: “A balsamic floral scent reminiscent of the first balmy spring breeze that excites bare skin with its caress.”
Pierre Guillaume uses the spring flower par excellence for his tonka bean variation and combines it with interesting fragrance notes: Lilac, tonka bean and cocoa are the ingredients of L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1 and how exactly these three harmonize with each other, I am very curious.
Tender as love
When I hear of lilac fragrances, I always think of the wonderful Frédéric Malle perfume En Passant, created by Olivia Giacobetti – a lovely lilac scent that I fell in love with from the first sniff. L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1 will now of course be of a completely different nature, which is already revealed by the fragrance notes. And also from the clearly tipsy apple spice scent Tonka Bodykon No. 31 should differ No. 31.1.
And so it is: light, transparent and airy – as the name suggests – the creation by Pierre Guillaume shows itself in the opening. The lilac is perceptible as a softly floral and pastel touch, and its delicate aquatic floral notes create a spring-like atmosphere. The tonka bean harmonizes perfectly here with its greenish facets reminiscent of dried hay, which for me also carry creamy, nutty accents. I don’t perceive the cocoa notes as such, but a brief research quickly brings to light that this is supposed to be white cocoa or chocolate nuances, and I definitely find them in the milky-sweet creaminess that underpins L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1.
With L’Air & L’Eros No. 31.1, Pierre Guillaume gives us a soft, restrained and creamy floral-spice combination that could appeal to anyone who prefers transparent, rather skin-toned and light fragrances and is still looking for an eau de parfum suitable for everyday life and office use during the warmer months of the year, but which can also be worn in autumn and winter. The emphasis of the creation is less on the lilac and more on the tonka bean, which makes the fragrant interplay no less beautiful. Even though I would classify the presence as light to medium, I perceive the durability as good. At least at close range, the warm, creamy notes of the eau de parfum can still be sniffed out after several hours. Delightful! 💜
Costume Liquide No. 14.2 – Iris Super-Ombré
Our second fragrance today revolves around a variation of iris. Costume Liquide No. 14.2 is the third iris fragrance in Pierre Guillaume’s numbered portfolio, after Iris Oriental No. 14 and Cuir d’Iris No. 14.1, which is not available at Aus Liebe zum Duft. Not leathery, not oriental, the third iris should be peppery. At least that’s what the press release promises.
Pierre Guillaume’s third work on the iris theme, after Iris Oriental (a balsamic iris) and Cuir d’Iris, Costume Liquide is a peppery iris. (…) A fragrance designed to convey the confidence, integrity and elegance of a tailored suit.
Like a liquid suit, tailored of course, Costume Liquide No. 14.2 is supposed to fit. Pierre Guillaume implemented this inspiration with the help of the fragrance notes violet leaves, iris, pepper, peony and vetiver.
Forest walk with Iris
Cool, greenish, almost minty the fragrance opens and reveals so surprisingly-fresh and forest-like herbal accents, which I would not have expected so. The iris powders quietly in the background, underscoring the herbaceous woodland nuances of the opening with its soft earthy notes, while the pepper provides a dry and delicately tingling spiciness.
An airy radiance is brought to the fragrance by the peony, delicately sweet and with the gentle, subtly watery notes typical of it, which both soothes and underscores the coolness of the creation, giving it new facets. Vetiver is also not necessarily a fragrance note that warms a perfume. Its fine-earthy and creamy nuances, which blow through the composition like a fresh breeze, beautifully round off Costume Liquide No. 14.2 by Pierre Guillaume.
Costume Liquide No. 14.2. by Pierre Guillaume is a greenish-cool fragrance with gentle iris undertones, subtle peppery spiciness and a refreshing woody-herbal note. This eau de parfum is also of the airy and transparent calibre. I would actually classify the presence between light and medium, and the longevity is the same in my eyes. Ideal for those who like to wear several fragrances throughout the day and like to reach for a different creation in the morning than in the afternoon or evening. An everyday life and office-appropriate, almost sporty unisex fragrance that I can imagine being perfect in the warmer seasons due to its coolness. 💚