BeauFort London has recently launched a new fragrance called Acrasia and the somewhat gloomy mood outside my office window seems to create just the right atmosphere for this British brand with the rather dark design of bottles, visuals and the mysterious-looking texts. The gloom is not by chance. The founder of the brand is the somewhat mysterious Leo Crabtree, who prefers to stay in the background and let his label Beaufort London and the fragrant creations take the stage.
Here in the Duft-Tagebuch BeauFort London was already several times along for the ride, so I link you here the reviews of the past years, for all those who also want to learn more about the other perfumes of the London fragrance house, whose first Eaux de Parfum date from 2015. In the meantime, the portfolio includes a whole nine fragrances. Three of them – 1805 Tonnere, Vi et Armis and Cœur de Noir, launched in 2015 – form the “Come Hell or High Water” trilogy, joined in 2016 by Fathom V and Lignum Vitae, while the other four creations belong to Revenants.
Acrasia – BeauFort London
As you can see, things are dark and a bit spooky at BeauFort London. Revenants Vol. 4 is therefore Acrasia, a fragrance that refers by name to the philosophical term Akrasia. By this, according to Wikipedia, ” Akrasia (…) is the case when a person performs an action, although he considers an alternative action better.” It is therefore a fragrance that tells of a lack of self-control and willpower. In what form this manifests itself still remains a mystery.
Anyway, BeauFort London gives a hint right on the bottle and also on the press photos about what kind of eau de parfum it could be. A rose is found on the front of the pitch-black bottle, and not a straight budding one, but a blossom that seems to be almost at the point of fading. Held by a ringed hand with claw-like fingernails that seems reluctant to embrace the style, which has distinct thorns. It is a picture in the typical Beaufort style, sketchy, old-fashioned looking and also a little melancholic.
Perfumer was, as usual, the British Julie Dunkley, who combined for Acrasia the fragrance notes Lemon, wine, bergamot, cinnamon, incense, rose, geranium, jasmine, amber, vanilla, musk, patchouli, vetiver and Cedarwood to create a fragrance said to be inspired by: “An epic, allegorical poem from the 16th century; a sorceress; a mythical forest.”
Haunting, powerful, seductive
An unusual blend of citrus notes and the characteristic subtle barrique nuances of red wine opens Acrasia, underpinned from the start by exceedingly creamy jasmine. Spicy-smoky accents gradually appear, which I would attribute to cinnamon and incense. Geranium brings a minty coolness to the fragrance, which very gradually blends with the gentle floral notes of rose.
Very powdery and calm is Acrasia in the further course. The soapy facets of the rose blend with the velvety-soft base notes that become lighter in the fade, all of which show their powdery-creamy and warm side. After a very long time, delicate and flowing suede nuances reveal themselves, with which the fragrance very gradually fades.
I would classify Acrasia as a rather quiet and restrained BeauFort London fragrance, because the other creations of the British brand seem to be more edgy. At the same time, Acrasia is also quite unusual thanks to the combination of citrus, wine and rose with incredibly creamy and smooth notes. On the paper strip, the eau de parfum seems noticeably sweeter than on my skin, making it more reminiscent of a port than a barrique-aged red wine. I also perceive the cinnamon much more intensely on paper than on my epidermis, which makes the composition not only more lovely, but also much spicier. Skin test is thus absolutely recommended, as but actually always. 🙂