The D:SOL MMXVI brand recently arrived at Aus Liebe zum Duft and with it the four creations Herbes, Terram, Tesoro and Sombra. The fragrance house was founded by Dennis K. Werner, an expert in the luxury beauty industry who, after more than twenty years in the business, finally wanted to realize his own visions and ideas. He frequently travelled back and forth between Mallorca and Berlin, and these trips ultimately provided the impetus for D:SOL MMXVI.
I wanted to bring together the sunny promise of Mallorca and the inspiring urbanity of Berlin. Minimalist design, inspired by life in Berlin, combined with the sensuality of fragrances, under the Mediterranean sun. – Dennis K. Werner
But D:SOL MMXVI is not only a tribute to Mallorca and Berlin, but also to the Werner family. The D in the name stands for Dennis, while SOL means sun, of course, but also refers to the first names of the daughters Sophie and Lynn.
The brand is also familiar in other respects, as it attaches great importance to the highest quality ingredients and raw materials, which it sources from a small perfume house in Grasse that was founded many decades ago by the legendary Edmond Roudnitska. D:SOL MMXVI also remains true to its homeland when it comes to perfumers. Marie Urban Le Febvre, based more or less in Berlin, has taken on the creation of the four fragrances, once again closing the circle.
Herbes – Mallorcan liqueur
For Herbes, D:SOL MMXVI was inspired by an old recipe for herbal liqueur that has apparently been known on Mallorca since the 18th century. The fragrance notes of lemon, orange, mint, star anise, orange blossom, tuberose, mimosa, sandalwood, cedarwood and musk are intended to take you on an “olfactory journey into the past”. “A deep green fragrance puzzle made up of 45 ingredients that send you on a new journey into summer every day.”
Herbes is a primal, herbaceous and green start to the fragrance. The citrus fruits provide a sweet and sour tartness, which is accompanied by cool star anise and fresh, grassy mint. The eau de parfum is very light, airy and transparent and you almost feel like you can hear the chirping of crickets on a warm late summer afternoon. Because Herbes is indeed summery. The grasses and herbs stand high above the dry earth. I perceive hay-like nuances. The flowers are light and very subtle, while the woods and musk provide bright and clean accents. A thoughtful and calming fragrance, quiet, gentle and restrained. Suitable for everyday and office wear, unisex anyway.
Terram – Autumnal Mediterranean
I’m sure many of you have already been to the seaside in summer – and I don’t just mean the Mediterranean. As some of you may know, I live very close to the Baltic Sea, so I get to see this part of the ocean at all times of the year. Stormy and gray in autumn, snowy in winter like right now, carrying the fresh breeze of spring and the shimmering turquoise-blue sea in summer. Every season has its own magic up here in the north, and I am sure that the Mediterranean also reflects the seasons in its very own way. Marie Urban Le Febvre translated the inspiration with the fragrance notes galbanum, pink pepper, coriander, magnolia, labdanum (cistus), fir balsam, benzoin resin, patchouli, vetiver, musk and cedarwood.
In the opening of Terram from D:SOL MMXVI, woody-green galbanum meets dry peppery spiciness and cool coriander spice, accompanied by deep, coniferous fir balsam and creamy, earthy patchouli. Magnolia brings a touch of lightness to the fragrance, while labdanum and benzoin resin provide delicate, smoky and smoothly sweet accents in the background. Cedarwood and musk lend the composition powdery-clean notes. However, the focus is on the woody, coniferous, earthy and dark nuances that were already clearly perceptible in the opening. Very beautiful, harmonious and balanced composition, with a medium presence and good persistence.
Tesoro – Fragrance treasure
Tesoro means “treasure” in English and this is exactly what citrus fruits were in Mallorca in earlier years. It is a fragrance that evokes “memories of golden and glorious times in the valley of Sóller in Mallorca”. “When oranges were traded like precious stones.” Marie Urban Le Febvre used the ingredients bergamot, grapefruit, bitter orange, petitgrain, jasmine, pink pepper, vetiver, leather and white musk for Tesoro.
Airy, fresh and transparent, Tesoro reveals a tart, acidic Hesperides freshness right from the start, soon accompanied by spicy green petitgrain and dry, hot pepper. Bright, light leather sneaks up on the citrus fruits, accompanied by creamy, earthy vetiver and powdery, clean musk. If I had to assign Tesoro to a colour, it would not be a typical Hesperides facet like yellow, green or orange, no, it would be white. A lucid, transparent and soft mix of citrus fruits and leather that is summery, subtle and absolutely suitable for the office and everyday wear.
Sombra – D:SOL MMXVI
As I always say, “No collection without oud fragrance”. Agarwood is omnipresent, and no label can do without the fragrance. Sombra by D:SOL MMXVI combines the precious incense oud with yuzu, clementine, mandarin, pink pepper, Szechuan pepper, geranium, Turkish rose, saffron, nutmeg, tolu balsam, vetiver and leather to create a real stunner.
Animalistic, wild, powerful and expressive, anyone looking for unconventional oud with rough edges will find it here. The citrus fruits add a touch of freshness to the composition, while saffron provides medicinal accents that emphasize the nuances of the oud. The rose breathes lightness and transparency into the Sombra fragrance, nuanced by dry spices and earthy leather. The creation calms down a little as it progresses, but remains in the animal-indolic and striking range throughout, making Sombra not a fragrance for every occasion and every occasion. Perfect for anyone looking for unusual and striking creations with a strong oud component.
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