In the third and last part around the Czech niche fragrance brand Pigmentarium we devote ourselves to the three creations Paradiso, Murmur and Oratorio. Already with the names, it is noticeable that the previous tendency to Latin seems to soften a little. After yesterday’s three candidates Ad Libitum, Erotikon and Genesis, with which we ventured into citrusy-creamy, spicy-dark and greenish-fresh scents, I’m curious to see what today’s eaux de parfum have to offer olfactorically.
In the following I would like to link you again my previous two contributions to the brand Pigmentarium:
- Interview with Pigmentarium’s founder Tomáš Ric – niche fragrances from Prague
- Ad Libitum, Erotikon and Genesis by Pigmentarium – Fragrant Greetings from Prague
Paradiso – Pigmentarium
From Prague, our journey goes to the south of France. The Côte d’Azur, a popular theme for perfume creations, was the source of inspiration for the fragrance. I guess that founder Tomáš Ric spent his summer holiday here, enjoying the sun and the bright blue sea. The fragrance notes definitely speak a Mediterranean language: grapefruit, tangerine, rhubarb, juniper berries, pepper, vetiver and patchouli. The rhubarb of course makes me sit up and take notice, and I’m not averse to gin notes either.
An energetic, slightly tart and citrusy fragrance inspired by the carefree summer on the Côte d’Azur. The sparkling water of the pool, the shade of the pine trees and a cool glass of gin. A perfume that spreads good mood and reminds of a jump into crystal clear water, the scent of exotic woods and refreshing, fine tart fruits.
Very citrusy, acidic and vitalizing-fresh is the opening of Paradiso, dynamic, energetic, a freshness boost par excellence. I like the start wonderfully. Tangerine brings a touch of orange sweetness to the creation, accompanied by the characteristic nuances of rhubarb. Tingling wood accents are set by the juniper berries, underpinned by dry hot pepper. Perfect! In the finish, patchouli and vetiver provide subtle earthy, fine-woody and creamy moments. Relaxed, summery and refreshing, Paradiso indeed exudes paradisiacal Mediterranean and holiday vibes! More of this please! 🍋🏖️
Murmur – scented mutter
The English word murmur means as “mutter” or “hum”. What do I expect from a fragrance with this name? Probably more of a quiet, restrained composition that doesn’t come on too loud. This would definitely correspond to the DNA of the brand, because all creations tested by me so far have always been well-dosed, finely balanced and of a rather transparent nature. However, with the ingredients amber, patchouli, rose, civet, agarwood (oud), musk and sandalwood, this eau de parfum could well be different.
The most distinctive perfume of the brand. Opulent and expressive from the first breath, inspired by whispered words late at night and the contrast between elegance and animality. An eccentric perfume with oriental accent and animalic note.
Murmur is truly not a soft-spoken fragrance, but an eau de parfum that dominates the action from the very first moment. Distinctive is a good description, powerful, idiosyncratic and unique I would add. Animalic-ambery notes meet the smoky woody nuances of oud, accompanied by soft, lovely and lucid rose, which adds lightness to the creation and prevents the fragrance from becoming too opulent, too heavy or even oppressive. Patchouli brings earthy-woody accents into play, underpinned by velvety-warm sandalwood and light musk powder. After an opulent opening, Murmur becomes calmer and fades out in with soothingly ambered notes.
Oratorio – the latest coup
French perfumer Théo Belmas was responsible for the creation of Oratorio, an eau de parfum launched just a few weeks ago. It is a creation inspired by Prague and Paris, by urbanity, by the temporally disconnected atmosphere in cathedrals where the scent of incense still hangs in the air. The same is also found in the fragrance notes: Mandarin, Neroli, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Atlas Cedarwood, Jasmine, Amber, Patchouli and Opoponax.
The debut of French perfumer Théo Belmas under the brand Pigmentarium. An olfactory work created on real and imaginary journeys between Prague and Paris. It shows the contrast between the dynamism of the city, where time rushes forward, and the space of an old church, under whose vaults time has stopped. The contrast of two moments that can be combined into a single moment. This moment becomes the now.
Hesperides characterize the opening of Oratorio, soon accompanied by the delicately smoky, subtly medicinal coolness of incense. Airy, transparent and modern, the eau de parfum appears timeless, minimalist and balanced composition. Cedarwood brings bright and clean woody nuances to the creation, backed by creamy jasmine and subtle earthy patchouli. Cool is Oratorio, but not cold. Ambergris and opoponax gradually give the creation depth, warmth and contemplative balsamic accents that beautifully finish the fragrance.