Yesterday you could get a first insight into the unique world of the Czech niche fragrance label in the article Interview with Pigmentarium’s founder Tomáš Ric – niche fragrances from Prague. Today I would like to start with the review of the fragrances of Pigmentarium. There are now six, all with quite unusual names. We will start with Ad Libitum, Erotikon and Genesis, tomorrow Paradiso, Murmur and Oratorio will follow.
The brand comes from Prague, as we learned yesterday. The Czech capital has a great influence on the label and its creations. Thus, in almost every eau de parfum there is some reference to Prague and the Czech homeland in general. But I do not want to keep you in suspense any longer and dedicate myself to the first three fragrances of Pigmentarium.
Ad Libitum – at your whim
Pigmentarium has a soft spot for Latin, which is already reflected in the naming of the brand itself. Ad Libitum is also Latin and translates as “to your heart’s content,” “as you see fit,” or “at will.” It is the first fragrance composition of the Czech label and was created from the ingredients mandarin, bergamot, aldehydes, cedarwood, jasmine, neroli, oakmoss, musk and patchouli.
Ad Libitum was inspired by the functionalist architecture of 1920s Prague, as shaped by the famous architects Le Corbusier and Loos.
Ad Libitum starts with acidic sparkling notes, greenish tart and reminiscent of lemon peel, dry, very airy, light and transparent. The cedar wood gives the fragrance clean and light woody notes that are quite submissive to the hesperides. The fresh citrus nuances last incredibly long in the creation, making Ad Libitum seem summery, sunny and also a bit Mediterranean. Jasmine and neroli bring subtle, creamy floral accents to the composition, while oakmoss, patchouli and musk add soft earthy, woody facets to the base. Very bright, transparent and citrus-fruity throughout. 🍋✨
Erotikon – olfactory love story
Erotikon might be of a completely different calibre than the Hesperides freshie Ad Libitum. Inspired by a melodramatic Czech silent film romance from the 1920s, which was considered offensive at the time due to its permissiveness and vicious subject, the eau de parfum combines the fragrance notes of chocolate, ginger, pink pepper, vanilla, tonka bean, amber, musk, patchouli and sandalwood. It should be warm, spicy and gourmand, absolutely fitting for a dull cool autumn day like today.
A captivating gourmand fragrance inspired by the famous (and at the time scandalous) film Erotikon by Czech director Gustav Machatý, which dealt with the theme of irresistible attraction. A perfume with an elegant evolution, great longevity and perfectly matched to the exterior. Its character varies depending on the wearer.
Dark and marked by a dry pepper spiciness, is the opening of Erotikon. Ginger brings a touch of citrusy-fresh notes to the composition, which breathes some brightness and lightness into the rather dark-chocolate top note. This eau de parfum also appears very transparent and airy. A well-dosed melange of pungent spices and tart cocoa, accompanied by vanilla-green tonka bean, powdery musk and the velvety-amber warmth of sandalwood. Patchouli provides earthy-creamy and woody moments that give the finish that certain something. A quiet and subtle fragrance for the cooler season.
Genesis – Pigmentarium’s Creation
Laurel, aldehydes, verbena, lily of the valley, apple, fig leaves, rosewood, musk and amber are the olfactory ingredients of Genesis, a fragrance dedicated by name to the ancient Greek concept of creation. You might think you’re dealing with a sacred, incense-dominated creation, but Pigmentarium’s eau de parfum rather pays homage to the colour green, to nature, to the plant world.
A fragrance as refreshing as a deep breath in the shade of a green garden. Inspired by a summer morning under dense treetops, the plucking of green stalks and the distant surf. The meditative and delicate green fragrance was created as a counterpoint to the hot city sun.
Genesis by Pigmentarium opens very fresh, citrusy and greenish, and this creation also reveals the shimmering airiness and molecular transparency that I would attribute to the aldehydes. Minty-cool green meets sunny citrus yellow, underpinned by bright lily of the valley and woody fig leaves. I also detect a hint of tart Granny Smith. Apart from the lemon yellow, the composition truly breathes the colour green, fresh, sometimes more tangy-fruity, sometimes more leafy-juicy. An eau de parfum that fits perfectly into the warmer season and can be worn on any occasion. 🌿