Crème Ébène by Nicolaï has just arrived in our shop – a creation I have been particularly looking forward to. Following last year’s launch of the Gourmand Collection with the three Eaux de Parfum Intense Pavlova, Macaron Bourbon, and Saint Honoré, which I presented to you in this review, Patricia de Nicolaï now introduces a perfume dedicated to powerful woods and noble spices.
Patricia de Nicolaï – the grande dame of perfumery
Patricia de Nicolaï occupies a special place in the world of haute perfumery, as she is one of the few women who has been able to carve out a firm and unique niche for herself at a young age. Growing up in a family with a long tradition in perfumery – she comes from the Guerlain dynasty – her affinity for fragrances was almost a given. But instead of resting on her laurels, she decided to forge her own path. She first studied chemistry and then furthered her education at the prestigious ISIPCA in Versailles. There she learned the basics of perfumery and was able to develop her passion for creating fine fragrances.
Patricia de Nicolaï’s first professional positions took her to renowned houses such as Florasynth and Quest International, where she worked side by side with renowned colleagues such as Maurice Roucel and Sophia Grojsman. There, she not only gained valuable international experience, but also contributed to significant creations. Particularly noteworthy is her involvement in Lancôme Trésor, one of the great classics of the early 1990s, which impressively demonstrated her skills and cemented her reputation in the industry.
In 1989, she and her husband founded the label Parfums de Nicolaï, which is now known as Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur. This gave her the creative freedom to implement her ideas without compromise and far removed from short-lived trends. Her focus has always been on high-quality raw materials, clear structures, and an unmistakable elegance that runs like a thread through her entire work.
In addition to her work as a perfumer, Patricia de Nicolaï is also committed to preserving our olfactory heritage: as president of the Osmothèque in Versailles, she is dedicated to preserving classic historical perfumes and making them accessible to future generations. This unique fragrance archive is considered a kind of library of perfumery. Here, original recipes are collected, reconstructed, and archived so that important compositions are not lost but can continue to be researched and experienced.
Patricia de Nicolaï is now considered a grande dame of perfumery. Her creations are aesthetically sophisticated, classic, and modern at the same time. They reflect her extraordinary passion for the art of perfume and make her one of the most influential figures on the international niche fragrance scene.
Crème Ébène – wood, spices and creamy warmth
With Crème Ébène, Nicolaï presents an Eau de Parfum Intense that fits seamlessly into the fragrance house’s collection and embodies the brand’s signature values: high-quality raw materials, a sophisticated composition, and unmistakable elegance. Patricia de Nicolaï herself describes her creation as “a silky embrace in which creamy facets and spicy woods caress and each note whispers tender words of sweetness.” In Crème Ébène, she combined the ingredients cardamom, cumin, saffron, Atlas cedarwood, Virginia cedarwood, date, papyrus, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla and white musk.
The Eau de Parfum Intense Crème Ébène opens with lush spices resting on a gently powdery woodiness. I particularly notice the saffron: its dark, leathery facets blend with aromatic green cardamom and a pinch of cumin. The cedarwoods bring light, creamy warmth to the composition, whose sweetness is underscored by honey-like, fruity dates. Everything seems fluid, supple, silky, and enveloping. The combination of saffron and creamy woods—supported by subtle, earthy patchouli—even evokes nuances reminiscent of the finest suede. Over time, the fragrance becomes calmer, gentler, more transparent. The sweetness gains presence, but remains well-balanced. Sandalwood and vanilla lend a lovely, velvety warmth, while musk rounds off the composition with an airy powderiness.
Crème Ébène is a seductive fragrance, mysterious, mystical, and fascinating. A profound, captivating blend of powerful spices, creamy warm woods and delicious dates, carried by powdery, gentle notes. A perfume that will delight all those who appreciate expressive, woody-spicy and at the same time creamy creations. I would rate its presence as medium and its longevity as very good. For me, Crème Ébène is the perfect companion for the cooler months – unisex, versatile and suitable for snuggling up on the sofa as well as for leisure or evening wear. It might be a little too strong for business, depending on the context. In any case, I am thrilled and can only recommend that you try this fragrance. What is your impression of Crème Ébène?
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