With the new fragrance Abu Dhabi and Indian Leather from last year, the Memo Paris brand remains true to itself. With each fragrance, it sends us and our noses on a journey to a faraway destination. All with the help of country-specific ingredients and stories that immediately awaken wanderlust.
Abu Dhabi and a sweet main actress
From the title, you might think that we are about to plunge into the big city life of the emirate of the same name. No, on the contrary, we are heading east to the border with Oman, to Al-Ain, where the largest oasis in the region is located.
Perfumer Mylène Alran envisioned this oasis as a place of joy and encounters. The best protagonist in this endeavor is the date, which thrives in the middle of the desert. But the Persian Gulf also has an influence, creating a contrast between sea and desert, an undulating movement that is reflected in the gentle sway of the palm trees in the wind. A thoroughly meditative approach, in my opinion, which keeps an eye on the big picture as well as the here and now.
The date is at the heart of the Abu Dhabi creation. It starts off almost fruity and fresh, with lots of spices and citrus fruits populating the opening. I can definitely detect orange, but also sparkling pepper and cardamom. With dates and plums, I was expecting an overwhelming sweetness. But this is not the case. This is actually the surprise of the fragrance. What could be sweeter than a date? But there is nothing sticky or sugary here, all of this is kept in check by a multitude of other notes. Saffron wafts through the notes right from the start, and this impression is reinforced by a fine leather accord. Liqueur-like davana and a finish characterized by soft, resinous, balsamic notes conclude the fragrance. I am debating with myself whether this is a gourmand fragrance or not. What do you think? In any case, I am impressed by this modern oriental fragrance, which is definitely suitable for everyday wear.
Incidentally, the flacon design was inspired by a traditional Bedouin weaving technique called Al Sadu, an interesting and once again harmonious detail.
Top notes: bergamot, orange, pink pepper, cardamom, ginger, frankincense, saffron
Heart notes: date, plum, davana, carrot seed, orange blossom, floral notes
Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, labdanum (cistus), resins, fir balsam, vanilla, ambergris
Indian Leather – the grace of the elephant
If we drive a little further south-east, we end up with the second fragrance of the day: Indian Leather. Memo has now built up a considerable leather fragrance collection called “Cuirs Nomades”, of which we have already reviewed Irish Leather, Ocean Leather, Russian Leather and Sicilian Leather here in the fragrance diary. So today we are adding another one.
Juliette Karagueuzoglou’s creation is subtitled “Oudissime” and imagines the subcontinent as a land full of sacred and dignified animals. The elephant in particular is the patron saint of the fragrance. Its majestic presence, calm, strength and charisma pay homage to an entire country and its rich and diverse culture.
As you already know, I can’t get enough of all kinds of leather fragrances and am now really excited to see what awaits me. Oudissime as the superlative of an oud note is no exaggeration. It runs through the opening with woody, medicinal and animalic notes by every trick in the book. Nagarmotha, or Cypriol, plays the same tune with its earthy, smoky and leathery nuances. Rose and jasmine in the heart play a supporting role at best. The main accord consists of nagarmotha and oud. So is Indian Leather a leather fragrance at all? Yes, because leather in fragrances is always the result of an accord. And here, the leather components of nagarmotha are combined with those of oud. As the fragrance progresses, the impression becomes much milder. Softer notes emerge.
Top notes: Nagarmotha
Heart notes: rose, jasmine
Base notes: vanilla, patchouli, styrax resin, eaglewood (oud), incense, leather
Both fragrances surprised me. Abu Dhabi with its non-sweetness and modern oriental composition. Indian Leather was strong and oud-heavy and therefore a bigger statement than expected. Which of the two made you curious? I look forward to your comments.
Be First to Comment