Matière Première is a fragrance house that has been available at Aus Liebe zum Duft for several months now, but has been completely neglected here in the Duft-Tagebuch. The French label was founded a few years ago by perfumer Aurélien Guichard, who himself was born near Grasse into an established family in the fragrance business. He came into contact with beautiful fragrances at an early age and eventually became a perfumer himself, just like his father.
In a nutshell: Matière Première
With Matière Première, he fulfilled his dream of having his own niche fragrance house, where he could be creative according to his own taste. The Matière Première collection now comprises eleven eaux de parfum, each of which is dedicated to a single natural ingredient or raw material that takes centre stage in the composition. This is also reflected in the name of the brand, as the French translation of raw material is Matière Première.
Some of these raw materials, such as rose or jasmine blossoms, come from the Guichard family’s own cultivation areas, as they have been cultivating these raw materials for the production of perfumes in the south of France for several generations. A truly unique selling point and highlight of this still young fragrance house.
Aurélien Guichard had a precise idea of how he wanted his fragrances to be. The focus should be on a highly concentrated and qualitatively excellent raw material, the formulation should be clear, the fragrances modern, innovative and minimalist, but at the same time expressive and powerful. Matière Première’s creations “contain between 85% and 92% natural ingredients. They are vegan and phthalate-free. They get their colour exclusively from their ingredients, without any dyes.”
So let me start with the review of the fragrances. There are eleven of them, so from now on we will be embarking on a little theme week in the south of France and I very much hope that the Matière Première brand will manage to banish the icy cold and the rainy, dull gray of winter a little.
Cologne Cédrat – Matière Première
Let’s start with a creation that already screams summer by name: Cologne Cédrat is the first fragrance in the Discovery Set I received, at the top left, and is therefore the first to be placed under my nose. I’m particular about sequences and after briefly thinking about an alphabetical approach, which I couldn’t implement for colour reasons (we’re dealing with white and black outer packaging in the set), I’m now going to work through the set from top left to bottom right.
Cedrat (Citrus Medica), mate, black pepper, pink pepper and bergamot are the ingredients of this eau de parfum and this sounds incredibly harmonious and good to me just from reading it. “Inspired by the scent of a lemon peel that you rub between your fingers, Cologne Cedrat is all about Calabrian lemon oil.”
Oh, it’s beautiful! Summery, sparkling and radiantly bright. Not too sour, not too tart, but just right. Citrusy, lemon-skinned and sun-yellow. The pepper brings gently tingling and dry nuances to the creation, which soon combine with greenish tea notes and, in combination with the still clearly perceptible citrus fruits, create a wonderful, sunny and summery melange that is definitely present, creates a good mood and lifts the spirits. Cologne Cédrat has a very modern and minimalist design and I find this reflected in the fragrance itself. I also find the longevity to be good, especially for a composition with the epithet cologne. This eau de parfum is a really great opening, finely balanced and very harmonious. You can tell that an expert was creatively at work here. Perfect for the warmer seasons and on point for every occasion.
Neroli Oranger – Hesperides blossoms
The second fragrance from Matière Première does not venture too far afield in terms of theme. Neroli Oranger is also about hesperides, but more about the flowers than the fruit. Neroli are the flowers of the bitter orange tree, as many or even most of you probably know, and oranger is the French word for orange tree.
The fragrance notes of this creation are neroli, orange blossom, musk, ylang-ylang and bergamot. As announced by the perfumer, this eau de parfum also contains only a handful of ingredients in order to focus clearly on one raw material. The floral component will probably be clearly emphasized without diminishing the basic citrus character of the composition.
LLight, airy and wonderfully citrusy-fresh, Neroli Oranger starts the fragrance. The greenish-tart nuances of neroli are combined with creamy orange blossom and the lucid, subtly tropical accents of ylang-ylang, which lend the creation additional floral highlights. Musk provides fine powdery facets that blend harmoniously with the citrus-floral mélange. Neroli Oranger is a wonderfully bright, transparent and sunny blend of citrus fruits, flowers and musk that smells of summer, holidays and good humour. Wonderfully carefree, this unisex perfume is a casual and uncomplicated fragrance companion for any occasion. Perfect for the warmer months of the year, but also perfect for autumn and winter. 💛