Let’s continue with the three eaux de parfum N.3 /noma, N.4 /decade and N.5 /carbon from aaa/unbranded, after I introduced you to the two creations N.1 /concrete and N.2 /sinless the day before yesterday in my article aaa/unbranded – Fragrance greetings from London. I don’t know if I’ve ever used so many slashes in one of my articles. The names of the London-based label, which produces its fragrances in France and matures them in Italy, are truly unusual and also a little unwieldy. However, the brand attaches great importance to a certain unconventionality and in this respect this characteristic definitely applies.
We remember that aaa/unbranded fragrances are inspired by different stages of life, from birth to death. With N.1 /concrete and N.2 /sinless we have already dealt with the first stage, the arrival in life, and early childhood, with N.3 /noma we are now dealing with the somewhat later phase of being a child, “the moment when you really start to discover the world.”
The label did not skimp on fragrance notes when developing the creation: bergamot, eucalyptus, orange, lemon, mandarin, thyme, mugwort, lavender, red berries, sage, coriander, camomile, geranium, juniper berries, vanilla, patchouli, tonka bean, amyris, cedarwood, benzoin resin, iris, vetiver, labdanum (cistus), leather, animal notes and woods.
As I understand it, the essence of N.3 /noma is refined again after maturing in steel barrels. The perfume is cold-smoked by the liter with American hickory wood over several days, then filtered and then enjoys a further maturation phase of several weeks.
Citrus-fresh notes open N.3 /noma. As with the two previous fragrances, the opening is rather restrained, and I very much suspect that the intensity and presence of the third creation will only really develop as it progresses. From the start, I perceive a gentle sweetness that rounds off the citrus fruits. Aromatic-herbal, somewhat tart nuances soon come to the fore. N.3 /noma becomes deeper and gains more volume. I can clearly smell the woody, dry tingle of the juniper berries. Earthy-cool notes combine with powdery-creamy facets. The composition is very complex and densely interwoven, yet reveals a thoroughly dazzling and varied fragrance progression. Woody, smoky and dry accents gradually define the creation, accompanied by fine, ambery, dark leather and subtle animal nuances with which the eau de parfum gradually fades away. Personally, I would also wear N.3 /noma on any occasion, but more on cooler days.
N.4 / decade
With the N.4 /decade, we are still not at the stage of full adulthood. Puberty is the inspiration for the fragrance and I would guess that it is a creation that deals with opposites, contrasts and the feeling of being torn. No longer a child, but not yet an adult, this phase is characterized by all kinds of emotions and hormones.
“N.4 /decade stands for puberty, for the transition between the desire to grow up and the need to flee into the arms of one’s parents.” aaa/unbranded translates this back and forth olfactorily with the fragrance notes bergamot, lemon, mandarin, lavender, geranium, marigold, nutmeg, clove, sandalwood, ambergris, oakmoss, vetiver and palo santo. The special feature of this creation is that a cold infusion with Palo Santo was carried out after the maturing process, which is intended to give the fragrance an extraordinary note.
The opening of N.4 /decade is fresh, woody and herbaceous thanks to tart citrus fruits, a striking blend of lavender and marigold and the minty-cool notes of geranium. The subtle sweetness of Palo Santo underpins the composition, which lingers in this citrusy-herbal phase for quite a long time before the fragrance gradually becomes warmer, spicier and softer. Sandalwood provides lovely, velvety accents that are underscored by delicate, leathery ambergris, while vetiver and oakmoss create earthy, woody and creamy, soapy nuances. The delicate, sweet and smoky woody notes of Palo Santo run like a transparent, red thread through the creation and are also perceptible in the finish. A rather subtle, understated fragrance with citrusy-herbal and woody-warm moments. A finely balanced unisex perfume that can be worn anywhere and at any time.
And finally, we turn to N.5 /carbon, which also revolves around the phase of growing up. Adolescence is the topic that deals with the psychological development of adolescents, while puberty covers physical changes.
The ingredients yuzu, star anise, tuberose, rose, pear, apple, petitgrain, neroli, orange blossom, caramel, vanilla, ambroxan, white musk and tonka bean symbolize adolescence at aaa/unbranded. It is interesting to note that the essence of N.5 /carbon was allowed to mature for 23 weeks in a steel barrel and then enjoyed a cold infusion with star anise.
Fresh, cool and also a little fruity, N.5 /carbon opens the fragrance, soon accompanied by delicate liquorice notes that add warmth and sweetness to the composition. Greenish floral nuances join in, herbaceous and aromatic. They lend the eau de parfum depth and tension, but also show a clear tendency in the greenish-herbaceous direction. The flowers have more of an underlining function than a supporting role. The fruits are also almost completely absorbed in the complexity of the creation and provide gentle fruity accents in the background, which flow into the floral-creamy notes. In the finish, N.5 /carbon slowly becomes more powdery and ensures a cosy ending with fine, spicy and gentle nuances. This creation by aaa/unbranded is also unisex and suitable for everyday wear and the office – for me, it’s more for warmer days. 😊