I can’t yet say for sure what to expect from today’s fragrance, Oudian by Pernoire. That’s because one of the ingredients in the latest creation from Nico Mannino and Robin Dünner’s Swiss niche fragrance label is a fruit that polarizes like no other: durian. But let’s start at the beginning. Regular readers of this blog will certainly be familiar with Pernoire, as we have been following the brand here since its inception at Aus Liebe zum Duft.
A whole series of articles have been published here in the fragrance diary over the past two years. The Swiss label’s collection has now grown to twelve creations and, with the exception of today’s candidate, I have presented them all to you here. In my opinion, a particular highlight is the two-part interview I had the privilege of conducting with the brand’s founders, Robin Dünner and Nico Mannino:
- Interview with Pernoire – Swiss fragrance art
- Interview with Nico Mannino and Robin Dünner from pernoire – Part II
- Amoral, Mansa and Masar by pernoire – Made in Switzerland
- Naki, Tierra and Vitias by pernoire – Olfactory personalities
- Otimo by pernoire – Like a phoenix from the ashes
- Poka by pernoire – fragrance pleasure in a limited edition
- Melos by pernoire – Cleopatra’s beauty recipe
- Anelo by Pernoire: Citrus-fruity elegance for hot days
Durian – Queen of the fruits
The durian (Durio zibethinus) originates from Southeast Asia, where it has been cultivated for centuries. It is known as the “queen of fruits” due to its impressive size – it can weigh up to three kilograms – and its distinctive aroma. Botanically, it belongs to the mallow family and grows on tall, evergreen trees that are perfectly adapted to the tropical climate of Malaysia, Thailand, and Indonesia.
Its characteristic feature is its hard, spiky shell, which encases soft, buttery-creamy flesh in an intense yellow color. It is precisely this flesh that has such a polarizing effect. In Southeast Asia, it is celebrated for its sweet, nutty flavor, sometimes reminiscent of vanilla, almonds, or caramelized onions, and is considered a delicacy. For many Western consumers, however, the smell of durian is a challenge – sulfurous, yeasty, almost cheesy. The smell of durian, also known as the stinky fruit, is so unbearable for many that hotels and public transport in some Asian cities have banned it.
But the fruit’s alarming scent also has a practical use: certain volatile sulfur compounds in durian are added to liquid gas so that escaping gas can be detected immediately. What is actually a good idea has led to several false alarms and evacuations in practice – for example, when durian fruits sent in packages gave the impression that there was a gas leak.
Oudian by Pernoire – an olfactory challenge?
Perfumer Andreas Wilhelm—known for his distinctive creations—is responsible for the olfactory interpretation of Oudian. To achieve this, he combined fruity notes, saffron, tropical fruits, Szechuan pepper, labdanum (rockrose), incense, agarwood (oud), leather, and vetiver. Pernoire is dedicated to dominance with this perfume – and so the raw materials oud and durian were not chosen at random. Both have a charisma that brooks no contradiction – majestic, powerful, polarizing. Or as the Swiss label itself says: “Those who dominate break down barriers and go their own way with relentless presence. Every gesture shows power, every decision shows strength. Oudian, named after the main players, is short for oud-durian – a metaphor for unchallenged dominance.”
What does Oudian by Pernoire smell like?
Oudian opens with animalic indolic notes, underscored by a delicate, tropical-like fruit sweetness. The oud is quite distinctive from the outset and combines with spicy saffron and fine leather to create an exciting blend, accompanied by intense, fruity-sweet and at the same time elusive nuances. Sometimes the sweetness comes to the fore, sometimes the spicy, leathery, and animalistic facets. In my opinion, the perfume always remains balanced and harmonious. As difficult and dominant as the individual raw materials may be, they have been brought into excellent harmony with each other in this composition.
Oudian by Pernoire is expressive and unusual without being unpleasant in any way, which one might expect when using durian. The fruity-sweetness with sour notes is golden yellow, exotic in appearance, vaguely reminiscent of mango with vanilla undertones. The strong contrast to the dark, original notes of oud evokes an extravagance and excitement that make this creation absolutely special and unique. As it develops, the fragrance becomes gentler, the dark, animalistic accents recede into the background, and sweet labdanum, cool incense, and creamy vetiver take their place alongside the tropical fruits.
Is Oudian suitable for everyday use?
Oudian is an idiosyncratic and unusual blend of animalistic indolic nuances and exotic fruity sweetness, which displays presence and expressiveness, but is also an incredibly exciting and balanced composition. Anyone who thinks Oudian is just a brute force is mistaken. The fragrance is distinctive and striking, but also exudes a very balanced and harmonious elegance and is never too much.
When is the best time to wear Oudian?
In my opinion, Pernoire’s creation is more suited to special occasions, for the evening or for when you want to make a statement and stand out with your fragrance. I would not recommend the perfume for the office or everyday wear. Seasonally, I see Oudian as an olfactory highlight in fall and winter. Another extraordinary composition from the Swiss niche fragrance label that whets the appetite for whatever else Pernoire may have in store in the coming years.
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