I’m still not quite sure what to expect from Pernoire ‘s Oudian fragrance today. Because one ingredient in the latest creation from the Swiss niche fragrance label run by Nico Mannino and Robin Dünner is a fruit that polarizes more than almost any other: durian. But let’s start at the beginning. Regular readers of this blog will certainly be familiar with Pernoire, as we have been following the brand here since its beginnings at Aus Liebe zum Duft.
Over the past two years, a whole series of posts have been published here in the fragrance diary. The Swiss label’s collection has now grown to twelve creations and, apart from today’s candidate, I have presented all of them to you on this blog. A particular highlight in my opinion is the two-part interview that I was able to conduct with the brand founders Robin Dünner and Nico Mannino:
- Interview with Pernoire – Swiss fragrance art
- Interview with Nico Mannino and Robin Dünner from pernoire – Part II
- Amoral, Mansa and Masar by pernoire – Made in Switzerland
- Naki, Tierra and Vitias by pernoire – Olfactory personalities
- Otimo by pernoire – Like a phoenix from the ashes
- Poka by pernoire – fragrance pleasure in a limited edition
- Melos by pernoire – Cleopatra’s beauty recipe
- Anelo by Pernoire: Citrus-fruity elegance for hot days
Durian – Queen of the fruits
The durian(Durio zibethinus) originally comes from South East Asia and has been cultivated there for centuries. It is nicknamed the “queen of fruits” because of its impressive size – it can weigh up to three kilograms – and its unmistakable aroma. Botanically, it belongs to the mallow family and grows on tall, evergreen trees that are perfectly adapted to the tropical climate of Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia.
It is characterized by its hard spiky skin, which covers a soft, buttery-creamy flesh in an intense yellow. It is precisely this flesh that has such a polarizing effect. In Southeast Asia, it is celebrated for its sweet, nutty taste, sometimes reminiscent of vanilla, almonds or caramelized onions, and is traded as a delicacy. For many Western consumers, however, the smell of durian is a challenge – sulphurous, yeasty, almost cheesy. The smell of durian, also known as the stinky fruit, is so unbearable for many that it has been banned from hotels and public transport in some Asian cities.
But the alarming scent of the fruit also has a practical use: Certain volatile sulphur compounds in durian are added to liquid gas so that any escaping gas is detected immediately. This is actually a good idea, but in practice it has already led to several false alarms and evacuations – for example when durian fruit sent in parcels gave the impression that there was a gas leak.
Oudian by Pernoire – an olfactory challenge?
Perfumer Andreas Wilhelm – known for his striking creations – is responsible for the olfactory realization of Oudian. He combined fruity notes, saffron, tropical fruits, Szechuan pepper, labdanum (cistus), incense, eaglewood (oud), leather and vetiver. Pernoire’s perfume is dedicated to dominance – and so the raw materials oud and durian were not chosen by chance. Both have an aura that leaves no room for contradiction – majestic, powerful, polarizing. Or as the Swiss label itself says: “Those who dominate break down obstacles and go their own way with a relentless presence. Every gesture shows power, every decision strength. Oudian, named after the main players, is short for Oud-Durian – a metaphor for unchallenged dominance.”
What does Oudian by Pernoire smell like?
Oudian starts with animalic-indolic notes that are accompanied by a fine, tropical fruit sweetness. The oud is quite striking right from the start and combines with spicy saffron and fine leather to create an exciting blend that is accompanied by intense, fruity-sweet nuances that are difficult to categorize. Sometimes the sweetness comes to the fore, sometimes the spicy, leathery and animalistic facets. In my opinion, the perfume always remains balanced and harmonious. As difficult and dominant as the individual raw materials may be, in this composition they have been brought into perfect harmony with one another.
Oudian by Pernoire is expressive and unusual without being unpleasant in any way, which you might expect when using durian. The fruity-lovely sweetness with tart hints is golden yellow, exotic in appearance, reminding me of mango with vanilla undertones. The strong contrast to the dark, original notes of oud evokes an extravagance and tension that make this creation absolutely special and unique. As the fragrance progresses, it becomes softer, the dark, animalic accents recede into the background and sweet labdanum, cool incense and creamy vetiver take their place alongside the tropical fruits.
Is Oudian suitable for everyday use?
Oudian is an idiosyncratic and unusual blend of animalic-indolic nuances and exotic-fruity sweetness that shows presence and expressiveness, but is also an incredibly exciting and balanced composition. Anyone who thinks Oudian is just a brute firecracker is mistaken. The fragrance is special and concise, but also demonstrates a very balanced and harmonious elegance and is never too much.
When is the best time to wear Oudian?
In my opinion, the creation of Pernoire is more for special occasions, for the evening or if you want to make a statement with your fragrance and stand out. I would not recommend the perfume for the office or everyday wear. Seasonally, I see Oudian as an olfactory highlight in fall and winter. Another extraordinary composition from the Swiss niche fragrance label that whets the appetite for all that is yet to come from pernoire in the coming years.
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