Not too long ago, a pretty cotton bag from Rhizome arrived at my Baltic Sea home, filled with eight samples, a handful of test strips, and a small “instruction leaflet” with the scent notes for each creation. Everything together seemed very coherent and appealing to me and so the cotton bag went directly into my selection of samples, which should definitely be reviewed here soon. Today the time has come, the eight samples are in front of me and await their fragrance tasting.
Short and sweet: Rhizome
But first I would like to tell you a little about the brand Rhizome. As a biologist, I naturally think the name is somehow exciting. The term rhizome is understood to mean a special or different type of root, namely a shoot axis, usually underground, from which sprout smaller roots and new shoots. We know the thickened shoot axis of ginger, which is also a rhizome, and extremely healthy and tasty.
But also bamboo, goutweed, horsetail and many others form a rhizome, which also acts as a survival organ in winter, when the above-ground shoots of the plant retreat into the ground. The peculiarity of these rhizomes is that they can be divided at any point, and each individual segment can grow into its own new plant. A small piece of a root is therefore enough to create a completely new organism.
The brand Rhizome was founded in 2019 by the brothers Stefano and Andrea Aschieri – originally with Dario Pozzi, however, he seems to have left the joint fragrance project in the meantime. Rhizome wants to do things differently from the rest of the niche fragrance houses, creating high quality fragrances at affordable prices and offering them to a clientele that tends to be overlooked or forgotten in the world of niche perfumery: the younger generation.
And so, in the last four years, the young label launched the fragrances 01 to 06 and, in addition, the two eaux de parfum Desert Dusk and Tropical Dance, all of which I would like to introduce to you today and in the next few days ☺.
Rhizome focuses on the creation of great fragrances. The fragrances should express themselves. An eau de parfum, when done right, is not just a fragrance, but an experience. An experience that will become a memory. A fragrance that can capture a moment in time.
01 – Rhizome
Of course, I’ll go in order and start with number 01. Anything else would be grossly negligent in my eyes. The first fragrance by Rhizome is said to be “a fresh and gentle eau de parfum for men and women.” The fragrance notes read a little differently, but the quality “fresh” may be individually perceived differently.
Galbanum, nutmeg, cinnamon, incense, cumin, resins, geranium, galbanum, labdanum (cistus), vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli are the ingredients of the first eau de parfum from the house of Rhizome here in the Duft-Tagebuch. Apart from the brief introduction to the creation, we learn very little from the brand itself about the fragrance, and even the name does not allow us to draw many conclusions. The inspiration is said to be “the clear notes of incense and patchouli mixed with the oriental elements of cumin and nutmeg.”
Very sweet, resinous and spicy starts the 01 by Rhizome and makes me spontaneously think of the perfect fragrance for sub-zero temperatures. I also perceive liqueur nuances, followed by a cool incense breeze that runs through the fragrance like a breath of wind. In tow, it has the green forest notes of galbanum and minty geranium that give 01 a surprising twist. Here it is, the announced freshness. The vetiver provides subtle moisture with its delicately rooty coolness, which goes perfectly with the earthy-sweet nuances of patchouli and sandalwood. Fascinating, exciting and incredibly elegant.
02 – Rhizome
The prelude was already great. I am curious to see what the number 02 has to offer fragrance-wise. From a purely visual point of view, the minimalist presentation reveals nothing about the content. You could almost call the flacons Scandinavian reduced. They remind me of a mixture of Byredo and DER DUFT, don’t they? In any case, I really like the restrained look, which is limited to the essentials, since I’m personally more of a fan of clear lines and structure.
The press release calls 02 “a woody and powerful eau de parfum for men and women” that is said to have “the notes of cedar and leather and the natural notes of labdanum and vanilla” as its source of inspiration. The fragrance notes definitely include these four, which are cedar wood, guaiac wood, vetiver, patchouli, papyrus, benzoin resin, leather, labdanum (cistus) and vanilla.
Guaiac wood, vetiver and patchouli give each other an incredibly harmonious, earthy-woody and fresh-cool rendezvous in the opening of 02 by Rhizome, which I absolutely like. A touch of leather comes in, also rather cool and smooth, accompanied by the rooty-greenish nuances of papyrus. The cistus underscores the smokiness of the guaiac wood, giving it a profound yet subtle sweetness into which the vanilla happily and spiritedly allows itself to sink. Light, airy and transparent, modern, timeless and also wonderfully elegant. Simply top!
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