Fragrance Review 2025 – January & February

The fragrance year 2025 had a lot to offer olfactorily. Numerous new creations, exciting brands and a wide variety of fragrance characters have accompanied me over the past few months. And yet, as is so often the case, much of what we love at the moment of discovery fades into the background over time or is almost forgotten.

This is precisely why I would like to take a look back here on the blog and review the year 2025 in olfactory terms. In this multi-part review of the year, the fragrances and contributions of the past year will once again be given space – as a reminder, as a classification and perhaps also as an invitation to rediscover one or two fragrances.

Winter still life with calendar page "2025 - January & February - A Year in Scent", candle, fairy lights and knitted blanket in front of a snow-covered window

January 2025

January 2025 began on this blog with a quiet, retrospective start to the new fragrance year. Before we turned our attention to the latest new releases, the focus was on consciously organizing and structuring. I wrote several posts about my review of 2024, which I’ve collected and linked here:

It was only later in the month that the focus shifted to new perfumes, individual fragrance portraits and striking niche creations. Two contributions to Atelier Materi’s new extrait collection kicked things off: Néroli Hasbaya – The New Extraits de Parfum by Atelier Materi and Burgundy Oud and Ambre Papier by Atelier Materi, which set the olfactory tone for the start of the year.

rei extrait-de-perfume bottles by Atelier Materi - Burgundy Oud, Ambre Papier and Néroli Hasbaya - staged on geometric white pedestals
Perfume bottle from BeauFort London with black cap, staged on a dark, stony background

The Force Majeure Collection from BeauFort London followed almost seamlessly. With Pyroclasm, Cape Wrath and The Grudge, Scottish perfumer Euan McCall dedicated himself to the unleashed elements of nature in three powerful creations: raw, uncompromising and hauntingly expressive.

The mood changed noticeably from the end of January. The fragrances on the blog became brighter, more open and for the first time gave a hint of the warmer months to come. With aloeae by Nomenclature – The Essence of the Ending Summer, a transparent, almost floating freshness made its entrance, providing a quiet counterpoint to the previously powerful compositions.

This was followed by Arabians Musk and Dallachaï by Montale, two fragrances that showed a light and soft side of the brand. Arabians Musk impressed with its airy musk fluffiness, gentle sweetness and delicate, flowing warmth. Dallachaï took a fruity, milky, cozy direction and, with its exotic lightness, finally brought movement into the wintery fragrance opening.

Perfume bottle by Nomenclature - aloeae - staged in front of aloe vera plants and a summery sea backdrop
Nomenclature - aloeae

Rue de la Paix by Isabey continued the light, soft fragrance mood. Creamy, floral and characterized by classic elegance, the composition combined airy transparency with subtle hints of vintage and had a consistently modern and balanced effect.

The month ended with Fox Red and Satin Cache from Bodé Studios in Switzerland and Cherry Cherry, Fig Me Up and Cinque Terre from Mancera. With their bright, spring-like, summery facets, the Mancera creations in particular marked the transition to a much lighter olfactory direction.

February 2025

February 2025 on this blog was all about individual fragrance portraits. Unlike in January, the focus was less on collections and more on individual creations, each with their own signature and mood. Hyperion by Rubini kicked things off, a multi-layered fragrance of citrusy flashes of light, incense and maritime, mineral facets that only reveals itself with time and opened the month with an intense note.

Perfume bottle by Rubini - Hyperion - staged on a dark, graphic background
Perfume bottle from Imaginary Authors - The Language of Glaciers - photographed on a snow-covered surface
Perfume bottle from BORNTOSTANDOUT - Be My Cookie - staged with cookies and powdered sugar against a red background

This was followed by The Language of Glaciers by Imaginary Authors, a quiet, inward-looking fragrance that radiates tranquillity rather than coldness. Coniferous freshness, herbaceous, woody nuances and floral-powdery facets combine to create a multi-layered composition that beautifully conveys the language of glaciers.

Be my Cookie and Angels’ Powder by BORNTOSTANDOUT lent February gourmet accents. Raspberry liqueur and chocolaty cookie crumbs met animal-erotic facets in the first fragrance, while the second creation was playful, sugary and colorful – shrill and extravagant, in the style of the South Korean label.

The “it” fruit of recent years was also represented in 2025: Cherry Blush by Les Sœurs de Noé combined fruity, floral and creamy nuances to create a spring-like, summery composition and added another facet to the French brand’s already very harmonious line.

Perfume bottle of Les Sœurs de Noé - Cherry Blush - staged with cherries and pink powder
Perfume bottle by Sensatio Paris - Golden Pistachio - arranged on a reflective surface with pistachios

Two contributions were also dedicated to the new Sensatio Paris brand, founded by brothers David and Sacha Perrin. The focus here was on culinary inspirations, not in the classic sense, but translated into finely crafted extraits de parfum. Golden Pistachio in particular impressed with a light, creamy gourmand interpretation that combined indulgence, transparency and elegance in a remarkably balanced way.

Venom – Secret of Shaman by Simone Andreoli finally introduced a darker, intoxicating note. Spiced leather, dried fruits and warm resins combined to create an intense oriental composition that hinted at spiritual depth without tipping over into extremes. The regular fragrance reviews in February concluded with Tantrism and 36 Jacob by Spiritum. Two fragrances with a strong character that oscillated between opulence and inner calm.

Perfume bottle by Simone Andreoli - Venom - Secret of Shaman - staged on a warm, earthy background
Perfume bottle of Spiritum - Tantrism - photographed on a dark rock by the water
Esxence 2025 in Milan - exhibition space at the international trade fair for niche fragrances

Finally, I shared a special event with you in February: Esxence 2025 in Milan. The international trade fair for niche fragrances not only offered space for new impressions, but also for discussions, discoveries and an in-depth look at current developments within the industry. In three articles, I have captured my personal impressions, selected brands and defining fragrance moments at Esxence:

In the next part of this review, I will tell you how the fragrance year 2025 developed in the following months, starting with March and April.

Recent Comments

Julia Biró Written by:

Bereits 2010 gingen so einige Blogbeiträge auf mein Konto. Dann war ich „kurz“ weg – sechs Jahre. Umso mehr freut es mich, dass ich nun wieder die Chance bekomme, mein Näschen im Dienste der Duftrezension schnuppern zu lassen und eifrig in die Tasten zu hauen. Was Nischendüfte angeht, habe ich damals übrigens schnell Feuer gefangen. Meine Ausbildung tat dazu ihr Übriges: Als diplomierte Biologin kenne ich mich nicht nur mit Fauna und Flora, sondern auch recht gut mit der Herstellung von Ölen und Extrakten aus, was den Reiz der Parfumwelt natürlich noch größer macht.

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