Today, three very different but equally expressive woody niche fragrances are on the program: Timber by Amouage, Oud Zarian by Creed and Tales of Amber by Goldfield & Banks. Compositions that each approach the theme of wood in their own way – sometimes clear and structured, sometimes dark and opulent, sometimes warm and narrative.
Today we start with Timber from the Omani fragrance house Amouage, which I’m sure you’re all familiar with. We then turn our attention to Oud Zarian from Creed before taking a closer look at the latest creation from Australian brand Goldfield & Banks.
Timber by Amouage – A heart of wood
As part of the Library Collection, Timber by Amouage bears the nickname Opus XVI. The 16th work in the line was created by perfumer Alexis Grugeon. Another fragrance that is entirely dedicated to the theme of wood. The press release speaks of “monumental power”, of a “strong, robust, courageous radiance of woods”. Big words then. The question is: what does this mean on the skin? Can we expect a massive, dark wood fragrance or a clearly structured composition in which the fine nuances of different woods are precisely interwoven?
Top notes: cypress, cardamom, pink pepper, cocoa
Heart notes: lavender, fir balsam, frankincense
Base notes: palo santo, bourbon vanilla, sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli
Testing Timber by Amouage
Timber starts the fragrance fresh, clear and delicately spicy. Cypress evokes citrusy-coniferous nuances that harmonize beautifully with dry, spicy pepper and greenish-aromatic cardamom. Herbaceous, tart lavender is clearly perceptible, blending with other coniferous notes and cool incense. Airy, transparent, characterized by light, clean woods and underlined by spicy accents. The fragrance changes in the finish: it becomes somewhat sweeter, deeper and warmer. The initial freshness fades and creamy, velvety, powdery-balsamic woody notes take over.
Timber by Amouage is a beautiful woody composition that begins with fresh, spicy and subtly smoky nuances and becomes increasingly soft and cozy as it progresses. Finely balanced and masterfully composed, the eau de parfum is a harmonious unisex companion for the cooler season that can be worn on any occasion thanks to its medium presence and good longevity.
Oud Zarian by Creed – No compromises
The oud used in Oud Zarian has been aged for 80 years: choron oud from the forests of Bangladesh, obtained from a particularly rare and high-quality source. A raw material that symbolizes what Creed wants to show with this fragrance – uncompromising quality and precision craftsmanship. The press release reads with corresponding self-confidence. Creed speaks of a “seal of quality for excellence” and that Oud Zarian was created for all those “who appreciate that true craftsmanship takes time”.
Top notes: bergamot, spices, incense, ginger
Heart notes: Provence rose
Base notes: agarwood (oud), patchouli, sandalwood, myrrh, licorice, tonka bean
Testing Oud Zarian by Creed
Oud Zarian is incredibly present, expressive and opulent right from the start. Initially infused with a delicately spicy freshness, the protagonist of this composition is quickly identified: oud. Velvety, sensual and very rich, the agarwood here is very different to the leathery, smoky or medicinal, resinous variants that I have encountered so far. The rose blends harmoniously into this melange and brings a certain lightness to the composition, but remains in the background overall. A subtle hint of liquorice pervades Oud Zarian, while myrrh, sandalwood and tonka bean lend the fragrance warm, balsamic and spicy-sweet facets.
Oud Zarian is an eau de parfum for anyone who appreciates intense fragrances and high-quality agarwood. Very present and with exceptional longevity, this creation is certainly not a crowdpleaser – nor does it need to be. Powerful and expressive, yet at the same time velvety, warm and with thoroughly cozy nuances, Oud Zarian is a fragrance that needs time. Those who give it this time will be rewarded with a multi-layered, deep and long-lasting composition.
Tales of Amber by Goldfield & Banks
The name already suggests it: Tales of Amber places ambergris at the center of the composition. There is also eaglewood, which gives the fragrance depth and places it in the context of this article. This creates a further, significantly softer approach to the theme of wood. The fragrance was created by perfumer Suzy Le Helley, who is also known for Black Guava by BORNTOSTANDOUT and Acne Studios by Frédéric Malle. With Tales of Amber, she shows another exciting facet of her work.
Top notes: moss, orange blossom
Heart notes: iris, cinnamon
Base notes: labdanum (cistus), musk, ambergris, agarwood (oud), vanilla
Testing Tales of Amber by Goldfield & Banks
Powdery, mineral and earthy nuances open Tales of Amber, and it quickly becomes clear that iris plays a significant role in the opening of the creation. Agarwood appears early on in the fragrance and ensnares the precious iris with smoky, woody and creamy accents, but remains rather restrained and reduced overall. So far, I have searched in vain for warmth in the opening – the composition is cool, clear and almost minimalist, transparent and very tidy. However, Tales of Amber also changes over time. The iris remains present, but warm, woody nuances increasingly come to the fore and merge with it. Orange blossom brings delicate, fruity and smooth, soft facets into play, while the initial coolness gradually recedes. The extrait de parfum finally ends with powdery-crystalline and creamy-smoky accents.
The latest creation from Goldfield & Banks is aimed at anyone who appreciates woody, powdery and spicy-creamy fragrances based on iris, ambergris and agarwood. Very balanced and harmoniously composed, Tales of Amber is elegant, modern and coherent. It has a medium presence and excellent longevity. Anyone looking for a calm yet expressive fragrance for the cooler season should keep an eye on this composition. You can find more fall and winter fragrances here.
Be First to Comment