The fragrance house D’Orsay is currently on everyone’s lips and I’m delighted about that. Because the brand is no stranger to fragrance lovers, perfume fans and connoisseurs. Even if the names of the fragrances have changed, even if the look of the flacons is modern and eye-catching, even if everything seems fresher, hipper and more stylish, the label is based on a long history that makes many other newly founded brands look old. At Aus Liebe zum Duft, D’Orsay was represented in its old guise until a few years ago, then disappeared from our portfolio for a while and is now back again: like the phoenix from the ashes with a new look, new creations and new concentrations.
A look into the past of D’Orsay
The House of D’Orsay was founded by Alfred D’Orsay, who was born in Paris in 1801. As the son of a Napoleonic general, he grew up in a culturally and socially influential environment and developed a keen interest in art, literature and aesthetics at an early age. In his early twenties, he moved to England, where he quickly became part of London’s high society and was regarded as a dandy, intellectual and style-defining personality.
D’Orsay moved in the most important salons of his time and cultivated contacts with personalities such as Lord Byron, Honoré de Balzac, George Sand and Alfred de Musset. In addition to his social activities, D’Orsay wrote poems and essays focusing on themes such as love, beauty and transience.
Despite his cultural influence, his life was characterized by financial difficulties. Alfred D’Orsay died in Paris in 1852. His estate contained references to his own perfume recipes, a detail that underlines his pronounced aesthetic sensibility and is now seen as a spiritual bridge to the modern fragrance house D’Orsay.
I look back with nostalgia on the lime blossom classic par excellence: Tilleul – the original dates back to 1915 and was gently modernized by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti in 1995. I was able to sniff the 1995 version and was immediately impressed. For me, it was the perfect lime blossom fragrance, so authentic, so wonderfully spring-summery and enchanting. Unfortunately, production of the fragrance has been discontinued, as have some of the brand’s other classics. Although there is an eau de toilette at D’Orsay that is supposed to be based on Tilleul, I have not yet come across it and therefore cannot say whether it is as wonderful as Olivia Giacobetti’s version from 1995.
We start with: Tonka Hysteria
Tonka bean, the protagonist and namesake of Tonka Hysteria, is much more seasonally appropriate than lime blossom. The ingredient has now mutated into an it-piece of the olfactory spice fraction and is increasingly finding its way into the world of niche fragrances. Not as a decorative accessory, but as the star of the composition. Velvet Tonka by bdk Parfums, Soleil Tonka by Chambre52, Tonka Bodycon No.31 by Pierre Guillaume, Tonka Sublime by Houbigant as well as Tonka Cola and Ombre Tonka by Mancera are just a few examples of fragrances in which the spice has been used in recent years. You can find more tonka bean fragrances here.
Perfumer Jordi Fernández was responsible for the olfactory realization of Tonka Hysteria by D’Orsay, combining mandarin, pink pepper, incense, cinnamon, iris, lily of the valley, tonka bean, benzoin resin and vanilla. His aim was as follows: “I wanted to create a perfume that captures the feeling of love at first sight. My starting point was to combine two of the most sensual and alluring ingredients in a perfumer’s palette: vanilla and tonka bean.”
What does Tonka Hysteria by D’Orsay smell like?
Pepper, cinnamon and incense make the opening of Tonka Hysteria dark, spicy, subtly sharp and smoky-cool, accompanied by the tangy hesperidic tartness of mandarin, which provides fruity freshness. But I soon notice the protagonist. The tonka bean lifts its pleasantly spicy veil and reveals the typical hay-like coumarin notes, which are wrapped in a light almond cream. The iris lends the fragrance delicate, earthy powder accents, which are underlined by the flowing, smooth nuances of vanilla-soft benzoin resin. Splendid!
How much hysteria is there really in Tonka Hysteria?
Fortunately, none at all. Tonka Hysteria by D’Orsay is an incredibly relaxed, gentle, almost meditative spice fragrance that combines pleasantly creamy and gourmand-spicy nuances. The extrait de parfum is very round, very harmonious and calming, making it perfect for anyone who prefers sweet and spicy creations based around tonka bean. Incense, pink pepper, cinnamon and mandarin provide an exciting opening and ultimately pave the way for the almondy, vanilla-like tonka spice, which lingers on the skin for a really long time in this form. The longevity is therefore excellent, I would classify the presence as medium. A fragrance suitable for everyday wear and the office for the cooler months of the year, which is sure to drive some people crazy with its beauty.
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