There is a floral star of the day today: neroli plays a role in both Datte Opaline and Néroli Cuivré – two more fragrances from Mezel Paris that I would now like to turn my attention to. In addition to the bitter orange blossom, Morocco is once again the focus of both creations. Anyone who has read my first article Mezel Paris – The Magic of the Beginning will be aware of the country’s special significance for the label.
Datte Opaline – Wedding tradition with dates
Wedding rituals can be found in many countries. In Italy, people are familiar with confetti – almonds covered in white icing that are presented to the guests. In Greece and France, sugared almonds are also an integral part of the wedding tradition. In India, on the other hand, desserts and spiced milk are at the heart of the celebrations. The situation is similar in Morocco: newlyweds are presented with dates and milk flavored with orange blossom – symbols of purity, generosity and a happy life together.
Together with perfumer Julie Massé, Mezel Paris has translated this symbolic gesture into a contemporary fragrance composition: Datte Opaline. The date is not reduced to its sweetness; rather, its multifaceted nature takes center stage. The addition “Opaline” refers to the milky, light and slightly shimmering nuances inherent in the composition. At the same time, this creates a direct reference to milk, which is traditionally served at Moroccan weddings.
Top notes: neroli, pink pepper, fir balsam
Heart notes: date, cinnamon, benzoin resin
Base notes: vanilla, milk, ambroxan, musk
Testing Datte Opaline by Mezel Paris
Sweet, spicy and present from the very first moment, Datte Opaline opens as a balsamic-creamy composition with sweet and spicy undertones. Neroli contributes fruity, aromatic nuances and brings a certain lightness into play, while the date remains surrounded by transparent, milky and warm, spicy facets. Its sweetness is honey-like and profound, finely accentuated by spices, almost liqueur-like. The individual ingredients are closely intertwined, creating a complex, expressive and multi-faceted fragrance.
Datte Opaline by Mezel is a balanced, liqueur-sweet and pleasantly spicy eau de parfum that is particularly effective in fall and winter. Certainly not for fans of fresh, light compositions. However, those who prefer warm, sweet-spicy fragrances will find a multi-faceted, finely balanced creation with a medium to strong presence and very good longevity.
Néroli Cuivré – Metal meets orange blossom
Néroli Cuivré also refers to a Moroccan tradition. It was customary to “welcome guests with orange blossom water from a brass vessel – as a sign of hospitality and respect.” These vessels, often made of brass or copper, are part of a centuries-old tradition of craftsmanship that is particularly practiced in cities such as Fez and Marrakech. They are characterized by finely chiselled surfaces with floral and geometric ornaments and the warm shimmer of the metal. Many pieces are made by hand, with the material being hammered, engraved and polished. This transforms everyday objects into items that are both artistically designed and functional.
Perfumer Mathilde Bijaouni refers to her personal memories in this context: “The inspiration was very appealing to me, as I have a dual French-Tunisian background. I immersed myself in my childhood memories to recreate the generous sweetness of orange blossom, combined with this rare brass accord, which gives this creation a unique place in the fragrance landscape.”
Top notes: cardamom, hazelnut
Heart notes: neroli, orange, magnolia
Base notes: metallic notes, cashmere wood, benzoin resin, musk
Néroli Cuivré from Mezel Paris in the test
Néroli Cuivré opens bright, radiant and airy. Delicate, citrusy nuances meet the aromatic freshness of cardamom and fine, nutty, almost milky accents, accompanied by gentle, slightly watery floral facets of magnolia. The composition has a warm, metallic shimmer that lends it structure and a special clarity. Orange brings a tangy, fruity sweetness into play before soft cashmere wood and creamy, slightly vanilla-like benzoin resin round off the base.
Soft and shimmering, Néroli Cuivré by Mezel Paris is a spring-summer composition of citrus notes, flowers and woody-powdery facets, discreetly underlined by a metallic accent. Fresh at first, the fragrance develops increasingly softer and warmer without losing any of its transparency. Ideal for anyone who appreciates quiet, understated yet present creations. Versatile and easy to wear.
Be First to Comment