After the intense start to the fragrance year and Esxence 2025 in Milan, March seemed like a natural continuation of this momentum. The impressions of the trade fair continued to reverberate, not only in the form of further new products, but also through a look at entire collections, brand worlds and the stories and faces behind them.
March 2025
In terms of content, March 2025 initially followed on from Esxence in Milan. In the article New fragrances, new brands – Esxence 2025, I expanded on impressions that had already been mentioned in the review of January and February and added further discoveries. The article thus formed a flowing bridge between the trade fair experiences and the new focal points of the spring.
As the month progressed, the focus shifted noticeably. Instead of individual fragrance portraits, the focus increasingly shifted to entire collections and detailed brand reviews. The articles on Perris Portofino, House of Fanatics and L’Objet were particularly influential here, each of which opened up very different aesthetic and olfactory worlds.
It all started with the perfume collection from L’Objet, a label that was previously known primarily for luxurious design objects, tableware and home accessories and is now translating its aesthetic signature into olfactory terms. You can find all my articles on the brand below:
- L’Objet – When art becomes fragrance
- Rose Noire and Côté Maquis by L’Objet – Of dark roses and the Corsican maquis
- Bois Sauvage and Kérylos by L’Objet – Woods and Hesperides
We then quickly traveled from Abu Dhabi to India with Memo Paris, while Ruby from Kajal Perfumes gave us gourmand, fruity fragrance delights. Ella K also had a new launch last year, which I had the pleasure of getting to know at the fragrance fair in Milan. Amber K by Ella K promised Caribbean dreams, perfect for the still chilly March and the prospect of the warmer season blossoming soon.
This was immediately followed by a new brand, House of Fanatics, which attracted attention at the beginning of the year primarily due to the unusual appearance of its bottles. The fragrances themselves proved to be much more accessible and finely balanced than the provocative design initially suggested. There were some real discoveries among them. Looking back, I think the brand definitely had the potential to establish itself virally in the long term, but it quickly became quieter again, at least on social media.
- House of Fanatics – The brand with the special flacons
- Wondermusk and Don’t Call Me Rose by House of Fanatics – rebellion meets elegance
- Danger Eau and Billion Dollar Oud by House of Fanatics – the sound of the sea and high delights
Two more articles on Perris Portofino appeared towards the end of March: Perris Portofino Collection – The beauty of the Ligurian coast and Fiori di Mare and Blu Profondo from the Perris Portofino Collection – What do you want from the sea? The crowning glory of the month was Ganz schön Brutal – The new fragrance from Pigmentarium, a lush, independent creation that brought March to a fitting close.
April 2025
In April 2025, the fragrance year became noticeably more opulent and sensual. The month’s contributions were characterized by intense compositions, Mediterranean longing and an increasing lightness that finally heralded the arrival of spring.
Right at the beginning, the Fabbricca della Musa brand took center stage – with the fragrances Île Bourbon (an absolute test recommendation for me), Opera Infernal and Oud Touareg. This was followed by a series of individual reviews that underlined the range of the month: Hypnotic Musk by Micallef provided fruity-powdery musk fluffiness, Flux by Andrea Maack delighted with cool-clean coniferous woods and exciting blueberry accents, while Stælios by Pierre Guillaume combined woody-leathery with aromatic-powdery facets.
The rest of April also went from strength to strength. Aldebaran by Marc-Antoine Barrois opened up a new, exciting take on tuberose, which was interpreted here in an unusual combination with paprika and tonka bean. Things then turned seductive with Fortuitous Finley by Penhaligon’s, the latest creation in the Portraits Collection. The fragrance not only revolves around the figure of an all-too-charming gardener, but also combines suede, pistachio and green tea to create a composition that is as playful as it is sensual.
Moroccan Medjool and Caspian Cherry by Electimuss, on the other hand, were completely different, bringing sweet and citrusy ambery nuances and warm, spicy, fruity accents to the fragrance diary. The focus then shifted to scented candles: Paul’s Garden by Paul Smith finally created a spring-like atmosphere with the three colorful candles Rose, Jasmine and Leaf.
The collaboration between Xerjoff and Duran Duran was an excursion into the rock genre. Neo Rio comes in four different neon shades and impresses olfactorily with liqueur-like, aromatic, fruity-woody and sweet nuances – a real feel-good fragrance that skillfully captures the spirit of the British synth-poppers. Black Moonlight, on the other hand, celebrates another of the band’s hits and combines hazelnut and cardamom with warm, spicy and ambery accents to create a darker, denser composition.
Then it was off to Italy. The Intenso Collection by Carthusia pays homage to the Mediterranean region with the fragrances Basilico, Ginestra and Mirto – colorful, expressive and so wonderfully Mediterranean. The month ended with La Cérémonie de l’Encens by L’Artisan Parfumeur, a beautiful incense fragrance that was modern, meditative and at the same time very finely balanced, bringing April to a close with calm depth.
This olfactory review of the year continues with May and June – two months in which the fragrance year 2025 continued to gather pace and was characterized by numerous new creations and olfactory impressions.
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