In the last part of the new Transcendence Collection from Gravel, I would like to focus on the Extraits de Parfum Eau D’Aspiration and Eau D’Evolution. I have already published four articles on the line and its fragrances this week – including two interviews – which I would like to list below:
- The new Transcendence Collection from Gravel – Interview with David Chieze
- Eau D’Ominance by Gravel – The essence of strength
- Interview with Mirella Pomina: The perfumer behind Eau D’Esire by Gravel
- Eau D’Esire by Gravel – Olfactory desire
Eau D’Aspiration – of wishing and wanting
With Eau D’Aspiration, Gravel is dedicated to aspiration, the desire to achieve something. It is more than a mere desire, but rather an inner drive that propels us forward, even if the goal is still unclear. It is a motivation, an impulse, a silent determination. This sounds very theoretical and yet the perfumer Anton Jimmy Studer has managed to create an extrait de parfum that expresses precisely this aspiration olfactorily.
At LUZI, Anton Jimmy Studer works according to the less-is-more principle. For Eau D’Aspiration, he combined the ingredients tobacco, bergamot, davana, cranberry, berries, osmanthus, tonka bean, sand, leather, ginger, musk, tolu balsam, mousse de saxe and ambergris. An incredibly exciting blend. But one ingredient stands out for me in particular: mousse de saxe, a chord with a history.
Mousse de Saxe was developed at the beginning of the 20th century by French perfumer Ernest Daltroff for the House of Caron and is still considered one of the most important fragrance accords in classic perfumery. It is characterized by its dark, mossy-powdery depth – often carried by leather, vanilla, violet, animal notes and a melancholy elegance. Today, it is usually interpreted in a modern way, as some of the original raw materials are regulated. What facets will Mousse de Saxe bring to Eau D’Aspiration? Presumably, the accord will provide a soft, nostalgic background that harmonizes wonderfully with tonka bean and leather. A reminiscence of the perfume classics of the past – embedded in a clear, modern composition.
The opening of Eau D’Aspiration strikes me as fresh, earthy, peaty and aromatic. At the same time, it is always carried by this bright lightness and airiness that I have already perceived in Eau D’Ominance and Eau D’Esire. As the fragrance progresses, the tonka bean enters the olfactory stage and provides greenish-hay-like coumarin nuances with vanilla accents. Gentle, soft suede flows into the composition, accompanied by the same notes that I would attribute to Mousse de Saxe. Soft, powdery, velvety and wonderfully warm, with facets that also make me think of bitter cocoa beans. However, all of this is very light, molecularly fluffy and transparent, which I really like.
Eau D’Aspiration by Gravel is a soft, powdery-creamy fragrance that combines the wonderful notes of tonka bean with supple leather and cozy, comfortable nuances. There are occasional flashes of fruity accents that add a certain tension. For me, the extrait de parfum definitely has classic, nostalgic traits, but with a very modern twist. Present yet transparent, an elegant and seductive fragrance that is absolutely suitable for everyday wear and the office. Really great and so special!
Eau D’Evolution – The lightness of change
The name component Evolution may make some Gravel fans sit up and take notice. This is because there is already an Eau de Parfum Evolution, which was also created by perfumer Maurus Bachmann, just like Eau D’Evolution. And so the extrait de parfum can perhaps be seen as a kind of further development, as the fragrance notes also show some similarities: Bergamot, lime, pink pepper, angelica (angelica), orange blossom, rose, iris, magnolia, tuberose, cedarwood, white musk, amber, benzoin resin, vanilla and tonka bean. Thematically, the creation is said to revolve around evolution, the “process by which properties and characteristics improve over time, new species emerge and others disappear.” At the same time, the extrait is also intended to capture “the sun-drenched glamor of California’s golden coast”.
Eau D’Evolution opens with delicate citrus and powdery, aldehydic notes and enchants with wonderfully soft, cozy facets of gentle citrus fruits and creamy, sweet, fruity flowers. The extrait de parfum is summery, sunny and airy. The notes of tuberose and orange blossom, sometimes lush and opulent, are wonderfully harmonious and are given lightness and transparency by delicate, fresh rose and subtly aquatic magnolia. Clean cedarwood combines with crystalline musk and the sweet, gourmand, spicy notes of benzoin resin, tonka bean and vanilla to create a wonderful, radiant melange that you would love to fall into.
For me, Eau D’Evolution by Gravel is a carefree, summery and sunny fragrance dream that I can definitely associate with “the golden coast of California”. A perfume like a light-flooded day – cheerful, elegant and full of harmony. A pleasant and comforting creation for all those who love aldehydic compositions with a certain molecular powderiness that is both classic and modern. Eau D’Evolution is a fragrance for all those who long for lightness without sacrificing sophistication and elegance.
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