I don’t usually read fragrance reviews on other blogs before writing a review so that I can approach a creation as independently and impartially as possible. I also deliberately ignore relevant forums such as Parfumo or Fragrantica when researching fragrances. Rather by chance, I stumbled across one or two posts about Lü Bu by Sora Dora on social media. There were many enthusiastic, but also some critical voices, which prompted me to read up a little on the blogs above. And I have to say: Lü Bu definitely makes me curious. So, for this eau de parfum, I would like to break with my usual approach and form my own opinion of a fragrance that clearly seems to divide niche fragrance tastes.
Between myth and man – Who was Lü Bu?
Lü Bu is not a fictional character, but a real and at the same time highly mythicized figure in Chinese history. He lived at the end of the Han dynasty and is still considered one of the most famous warriors of this era: feared for his physical strength and brutality, admired for his bravery – and at the same time notorious for his instability. Loyalty never lasted with Lü Bu, alliances broke down, betrayal was as much a part of his history as military greatness. It is precisely this ambivalence that makes him a fascinating figure to this day: hero and anti-hero, victor and martyr, man and legend at the same time.
Sora Dora has now dedicated a fragrance to this ambivalent character. This is not a martial glorification of violence and power, but an olfactory portrait of a legendary warrior who is shattered by his own legend. He meets an early death after a life of switching sides, power struggles and tactical alliances ends in captivity.
Lü Bu was not a victim of betrayal, but a figure who repeatedly renounced his own loyalties and thus got caught between the fronts. In his case, military brilliance and political isolation went hand in hand. It is precisely this mixture of strength, unpredictability and ultimate failure that makes Lü Bu a figure between myth and man to this day.
Black and gray descend over the plain.
Lü Bu emerges from the thick fog clinging to the hills –
a bent figure, lost in the haze after battle.
Once the most feared warrior of the realm, formed of iron and fire,
now close to death.
Not defeated by a single blow, but devoured by his own legend.
Lü Bu by Sora Dora – Scent of the warrior
In a fragrance for a warrior, ingredients such as blood, metal and gunpowder come as no surprise. However, the latter was not invented until much later. During the Han dynasty, other weapons were the means of choice. Lü Bu probably used a Chinese halberd called ji, a combination of spear and bladed weapon, which was particularly suitable for horsemen and lone fighters.
The warrior fragrance was created by the young Flair perfumer Margaux Le Paih-Guérin, who has also brought us other olfactory treasures such as Red, 7 and Jany by Sora Dora as well as Oud Candy, Filthy Musk, Nuts and Dirty Heaven by BORNTOSTANDOUT.
Top notes: Clove, Metallic notes
Heart notes: Paper, Smoky notes, Iris, Blood
Base notes: Vanilla, Tonka bean, Amyris, Guaiac wood, Almond, Cashmere wood, Virginia cedar, Tolu balsam, Metallic notes
Testing Lü Bu by Sora Dora
In the opening of Lü Bu, cold, shiny metal meets aromatic clove and the warm, balsamic notes of Armenian paper. A hint of gunpowder lingers smokily in the air, accompanied by creamy, earthy iris and those blood facets that are difficult to categorize, but which in no way have an unpleasant effect on me. Vanilla and tonka bean lend the composition a sweet and spicy depth as it progresses, which is gradually joined by further creamy and soft accents. Powdery guaiac wood, almost reminiscent of violet, creamy almond nuances and light, soft woods finally form a calm, warm base. The metallic blood aspects are still present, but now blend harmoniously with the softer, enveloping notes.
Incidentally, Lü Bu is much cooler, smokier and edgier on the test strip than on my skin. The earthy-metallic facets are more prominent here, which is why I definitely recommend testing it on your own skin.
Is Lü Bu a polarizing fragrance?
I am certain that the perfume is not a crowdpleaser. Ingredients such as blood, metal and black powder are deliberately outside the mainstream – and that is precisely what shapes its character. The fragrance also requires time and attention. The first impression, especially on the test strip, can be irritating at first. However, if you give it a skin test, you will discover a creation that combines exciting, unconventional facets with comforting, spicy and cozy nuances.
Lü Bu is not a fragrance for everyday wear or the office. It is more suitable for the evening, for moments when you can consciously perceive it. Unisex, with a medium presence and good longevity, the fragrance is particularly harmonious in the cooler months of the year.
Have you already tested Lü Bu? What did you think of it?
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