Having already introduced you to the brand itself and the first three creations in my last posts – Tonka Hysteria by D’Orsay – or how a fragrance house reinvents itself and Flower Lust and Rose Blaze by D’Orsay – fragrant floral greetings for the new year – I would now like to conclude this little series on the D’Orsay label with Incense Crush and Holy Berry. Today could be a little sacred, as incense is the ultimate church incense and the berries in our second candidate today are said to be holy.
Incense Crush – Cool love
Incense Crush, our first candidate today, was created by perfumer Julien Rasquinet and is intended as a kind of love potion for seduction. We remember: we already encountered this theme at D’Orsay in Flower Lust by Dominique Ropion – an exciting spicy-sweet blend of orange blossom, ylang-ylang, tonka bean and pepper. However, Julien Rasquinet’s version is likely to be completely different, as he combines the ingredients clove, cardamom, leather, incense, cedarwood, oak and vetiver.
“I wanted this perfume to tell the story of two souls falling in love. An extremely sensual composition centered around incense, which is generally perceived as a mystical substance, whereas I actually find it incredibly sensual.”
French perfumer Julien Rasquinet was born in 1983 and trained at the renowned ISIPCA in Versailles. After working for Robertet and Firmenich, he joined IFF as a perfumer in 2016. He is known for creations such as Ambre Safrano for bdk Parfums, Bois d’Ascèse for Naomi Goodsir and Cerana for Nectar Olfactif. His fragrances are often complex and concentrated, with noticeable depth and a particular preference for resinous and woody facets.
What does Incense Crush by D’Orsay smell like?
Dark leather – smooth, cool and creaky – meets dry oak notes and the smoky facets of incense, evoking a meditative, sacred mélange that reminds me of campfires, ashes and monastery walls. The color grey is predominant, the mood is somber. Incense Crush by D’Orsay is also serious, thoughtful and a little melancholy as it progresses. I do not perceive cardamom and clove as individual fragrance notes, the trio of leather, incense and oak is too dense and closely interwoven. Gradually, the creation calms down. Vetiver adds a few earthy facets to the composition and underlines its coolness. Very subtly and only in the background, I perceive the light woody notes of cedar, which put a stop to the harsh smokiness of Incense Crush.
Is Incense Crush a fragrance for niche newcomers?
A difficult question. On the one hand, there may be newcomers to the niche fragrance scene who are immediately blown away by the special orientation of this extrait de parfum. However, I see the creation more as a fragrance for connoisseurs, for connoisseurs of the scene who know how to handle such an incense-oak-leather caliber and appreciate its wonderful composition. Incense Crush is a statement, not a fragrance for the office or everyday wear, but one that should be worn in the evening, on special occasions or precisely when you want to make a statement. Harsh, dry, smoky and completely without sweetness from start to finish, the extrait de parfum impresses with a medium to strong presence and excellent longevity. A smoky, woody leather fragrance for all those who love something special and unusual.
Holy Berry – A Berry with a Halo
Holy Berry should be completely different from Incense Crush. The IFF perfumer Tanguy Guesnet is still unknown to me. What I was able to find out: From an early age, at the age of five or six, he observed the sales assistants in a perfumery spraying fragrances onto test strips. The special smells and the aesthetics of this scene impressed him so much that he eventually wanted to become a perfumer. He describes himself as a connoisseur. On a trip to China, he witnessed the harvesting of geranium, which inspired him greatly and if he hadn’t become a perfumer, he would have made a name for himself as a tennis player or bartender. For Holy Berry, he blended the ingredients strawberry, milk, cardamom, iris, jasmine, eaglewood (oud), vanilla and sandalwood to create a “feeling of instant addiction and pure pleasure”.
What does Holy Berry by D’Orsay smell like?
Juicy-sweet strawberries combine with milky-creamy facets and greenish-spicy cardamom in the opening of Holy Berry – powerful, sumptuous, a real treat. The oud brings fine, woody smoky nuances to the composition, but is rather restrained and less dominant overall, while the sandalwood provides warm, sweet and ambery moments. The strawberry fruitiness remains just as perceptible as the milky notes, resulting in a sweet, creamy and woody-fruity melange.
Is Holy Berry a gourmand?
I would describe the extrait de parfum as Fruity Oud, because I would not ascribe a dessert character to the composition. If you love strawberries in fragrances and are not averse to milky accents, Holy Berry could be just the thing for you. I personally find the oud to be well-balanced. In general, the composition is very harmonious. No fragrance stands out or drowns out the others. I see the extrait de parfum as being more suitable for the cooler months of the year, without classifying it as a classic cuddly fragrance. With a medium presence and good longevity, Holy Berry is a good companion for everyday life and leisure.
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