The two new fragrances from Gritti are ideal for the current season: Muskaria and Vanilla Tanà are dedicated to cozy musky notes and beguiling vanilla – doesn’t that just scream autumn and winter? I, for one, am in the mood for warming, feel-good fragrances, because it’s chilly, cloudy and rainy up here on the Baltic Sea. Stormy to boot. So let’s start right away and test the first of the two extraits de parfum.
Muskaria – More of this musk please!
According to the press release, Muskaria is said to have been the personal signature fragrance of perfumer and brand founder Luca Gritti for many years. An exclusive creation reserved for him alone, which I have great expectations of. The ingredients bergamot, spices, rose, labdanum (cistus), benzoin resin, leather, powdery notes, vanilla, patchouli, ambrette and musk hint at a composition that could be exactly to my taste.
Muskaria was created in the refined world of haute perfumery, where mystery and elegance intermingle. Muskaria is an opulent blend of noble musk notes, rare spices and precious resins, profound, refined and irresistibly attractive. […] A fragrance full of allure and self-confidence, to be worn on the skin like a whispered secret.
Musk is one of the most fascinating and versatile raw materials in perfumery. Formerly of animal origin, it is now produced exclusively synthetically. It lends compositions warmth, depth and those soft, skin-like facets which – depending on the dosage – can have a powdery, creamy, fresh or even slightly animalistic effect. Hardly any other fragrance is so ubiquitous – and yet so changeable.
What does Muskaria by Gritti smell like?
A liqueur-like, spicy and dark warmth opens Muskaria by Gritti in a way that can only be described as fascinating, captivating and beguiling. A chocolaty tartness pervades the composition – finely earthy, dry and underpinned by mineral facets. The patchouli reveals wonderful accents that combine with the smoky sweetness of labdanum, soft, ambery leather, dark vanilla and powdery-creamy, delicately animal musk. Simply wonderful!
When is the best time to wear Muskaria?
Muskaria is a complex, dense and extremely harmonious composition and you really have to be grateful to Luca Gritti for making this fragrance available to the general public. For me, it is an absolute fall and winter fragrance with a medium presence and excellent longevity that is enveloping, comforting and warming. Oriental in feel and wonderfully spicy, this extrait de parfum is perfect for those who love special, elegant and sophisticated fragrances with patchouli, musk and rich spices. Unisex and versatile, it can be worn in the evening, at the office or simply snuggled up on the sofa.
Vanilla Tanà – Golden vanilla dream
With Vanilla Tanà, we travel to Madagascar, the country that is now considered the most important region of origin for Bourbon vanilla. The vanilla plant originally comes from Mexico, where its flowers are pollinated by Melipona bees. However, these are absent outside their natural habitat, which is why the technique of hand pollination was developed on Reunion Island in the 19th century. It is a laborious task that is still practiced today with every single vanilla blossom. After harvesting, the still green pods are first blanched, then dried in the sun for several weeks before being fermented. This creates the special, characteristic aroma of Bourbon vanilla.
However, Luca Gritti discovered another, almost forgotten tradition in Madagascar: the hollow trunks of baobab trees are used here to macerate the vanilla pods, which is said to give the spice additional depth and warmth. He combines vanilla, ylang-ylang, pink pepper, tonka bean, sandalwood, ambergris and white musk for his olfactory homage to this particularly multifaceted variant of spiced vanilla.
What does Vanilla Tanà by Gritti smell like?
Vanilla Tanà starts off sweet and lovely, with golden yellow nuances reminiscent of honey. I was expecting a dark, woody vanilla, but Luca Gritti’s latest creation is quite different. Vanilla Tanà has a gourmand, vanilla-like delicacy, far removed from a sticky, sweet or exuberant presence. Subtle liqueur undertones accompany this enchanting fragrance, which is enveloping, soft, fresh and floral. Milky-creamy accents gradually join the golden vanilla floral sweetness and finally round off the fragrance beautifully.
When is the best time to wear Vanilla Tanà?
Although I would attribute a certain lightness and summeriness to the creation, I see Vanilla Tanà more in the fall and winter: a bright ray of hope on a dull, rainy fall day like today, when you would love to crawl back under the covers. The extrait de parfum adds radiant facets to the world of vanilla fragrances – tropically accentuated, gourmand, sweet and powdery-floral. The creation tends to be feminine, but is designed as a unisex fragrance. With a medium presence and excellent longevity, Vanilla Tanà is a wonderful companion in the office, in everyday life and for going out. You can find many more exciting vanilla fragrances – and of course Vanilla Tanà – in our Vanilla – sweet, delicious temptations category.
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