The traditional American brand Gravel, whose history began with the fragrance A Man’s Cologne and which is deeply rooted in the narrative of the American Dream, is opening a new chapter with the Transcendence Collection. Founded in the 1950s by Michael Knudsen – actor, visionary, aesthete and bon vivant – Gravel has long been a well-kept secret. The fragrance with the pebbles in the bottle, hand-picked from the banks of the Hudson River, was more than just a perfume back then. It was first a statement and later a legend. After Knudsen’s death, Gravel disappeared from the olfactory world stage for quite a while. The brand, like so many others, seemed to have fallen victim to the passage of time.

But then Christian Blessing – who has always been a true fan of classic Gravel fragrances – came on the scene. He was driven by the idea of not only preserving Knudsen’s legacy, but breathing new life into it. With great sensitivity and respect for the original formulas, Blessing brought back A Man’s Cologne, gently reformulated and modernized, and gradually launched other creations from Knudsen’s fragrance collection.
Transcendence Collection – a new era
Now Gravel is going one step further and launching a new collection: the Transcendence Collection. The first completely independent fragrance line since the revival of the brand – not a tribute to the past, but an expression of the present. Or rather: the future. Freshly conceived, with new ideas, new olfactory signatures and a clear artistic claim. The Transcendence Collection not only marks another milestone in the history of Gravel, but also the beginning of a new creative chapter.
This collection comprises four fragrances: Eau D’Ominance, Eau D’Aspiration, Eau D’Esire and Eau D’Evolution. Each of them is intended to be a unique interpretation of what it can mean to go beyond the familiar. Over the coming week, I will be introducing all four on this blog. First up is Eau D’Ominance, a creation by French perfumer David Chieze, who brought his own personal vision of strength, duality and identity to this fragrance. Before I tell you about my impressions of the fragrance, I will first let David Chieze himself speak – about his approach, his inspiration and the idea behind Eau D’Ominance.
Dear David, could you tell us a bit about yourself and your path into the world of perfumery?
I’ve been working as a perfumer for about nine to ten years now. I create fragrances for the family-owned company LUZI, which is headquartered near Zurich. Creatively, however, I’m mainly based in Paris, where I develop new scents together with Mark Buxton in our Paris office.
Do you remember your very first encounter with scent? A smell or moment that has stayed with you ever since?
Absolutely. I must have been about three or four years old. We were living in the north of France at the time, and the scents of my childhood were very green – freshly cut grass, thuja, forest floor. One day, my parents took me on a hike in the south of France, where the landscape was dry and sun-drenched. I vividly remember asking my mother what that unusual scent in the air was. She told me it was rosemary and thyme – just growing wild in the countryside.
Was there a specific fragrance that sparked your passion for scent? And do you have an all-time favorite?
Definitely: Fahrenheit by Dior. My grandfather used to wear it, and later my father. That scent still brings a smile to my face – it’s like an olfactive anchor to my memories. Later on, was deeply impressed by
Féminité du Bois and Eau Sauvage – true masterpieces. And then there’s Iris Gris by Jacques Fath – a true gem and iconic fragrance that had disappeared for many years and has thankfully been reissued.
What ultimately inspired you to become a perfumer?
Since my earliest memories are so strongly tied to scent, I think the passion has always been a part of me. When I realized that it was actually possible to make a career out of working with fragrance, it was clear that this was the path I had to follow.
How did your collaboration with Christian and the Gravel team come about? Had you worked together before?
No, we hadn’t worked together before. But we had met a few times at various events. Our encounters were always warm and open, and over time, this naturally led to a collaboration. It just felt right.
Did you receive a specific briefing for Eau D’Ominance? Or how did the concept take shape?
We were in touch on and off, and at some point, Christian asked if I could imagine working with a combination of oud, leather, and salt. I was immediately intrigued – especially since I had actually experimented with a very similar idea a few months prior. It felt like a wonderful coincidence, almost like creative synchronicity.
The fragrance is said to embody the essence of dominance. In your view, what qualities must a perfume possess to evoke that idea?
For me, it’s about boldness, character, charisma, and elegance. Dominance doesn’t have to mean being loud – it’s more about presence, that certain something you sense before you even see or hear it.
Which fragrance families or ingredients do you associate with power or dominance?
Definitely leather, animalic nuances, and intense woods. Anything that carries a certain sharpness and is somehow edgy. These elements exude confidence without ever becoming overbearing.
Leather, oud, and salt – that’s a bold and unexpected combination. How would you describe the character of this blend?
It’s certainly daring, but also refined. It feels powerful and yet elegant. The salty aspect adds something modern, almost unpredictable – and I really like that contrast.
Were there any particular challenges or turning points during the development of Eau D’Ominance?
Actually, no. Sometimes a creative process just flows smoothly – and this was one of those times. The elements harmonized so naturally that the composition almost came together by itself.
When would you personally wear this fragrance? Is it more of a signature scent or something for special occasions?
For me, it’s absolutely a signature scent. I love the combination of leather, salt, and violet – it really reflects my personal taste. There was one particular image that stayed with me during the process:
“I pictured a piece of heavy leather washed ashore, slowly drying in the sun and forming a crust of salt. This fragrance brings together some of my favorite notes, which also makes it very personal to me. It has substance and texture without ever being overpowering.”
What, in your opinion, makes Eau D’Ominance stand out?
The salty breeze doesn’t soften the depth of the leather and oud – instead, it lifts it, making the fragrance more wearable and versatile. Yet the richness and depth always remain present. This balance is what makes it special to me.
What kind of mood or aura does the scent convey to you?
To me, this fragrance represents confidence, elegance, and poise. Dominance here isn’t loud or brash – it’s expressed through poise and presence. It’s a scent that doesn’t try to please – it simply stands on its own.
Is there a raw material that currently inspires you?
At the moment, I’m really drawn to salty notes and also to fruity accords that aren’t sweet. There’s a lot to explore there.
And on the other side – is there a material you find especially challenging to work with?
Honestly, no. I believe you can work with any raw material – it’s all about finding the right context and “dressing” it appropriately.
Dear David, thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions.
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