After a decidedly summery July and August, the mood in the fragrance diary slowly changed in September. The creations became more multifaceted, more complex in places, without losing any of their lightness. In addition to new brand discoveries, established fragrance houses also came into focus with exciting collections and individual reviews.
In October, the transition to the cooler months was clearly evident: vanilla, woods, spices and velvety textures gained in presence. Between elegant autumn interpretations, characterful extraits and some particularly atmospheric new launches, the 2025 fragrance year continued to develop noticeably.
September 2025
September begins just as August ended: firmly in the hands of the US label Commodity, which heralded the olfactory arrival of autumn with the two articles Commodity Book – When Eucalyptus Invites You to Read and Commodity Moss – Join Us on a Forest Walk.
Crème Ébène by Nicolaï gave rise to the first moments of well-being – a beautiful and creamy-soft fragrance that combines fine spices with smooth woods and sweet dates, on a powdery and velvety base. Perfect for anyone who likes to be cozy and comfortable in the cooler months of the year. A clear test recommendation!
Immediately afterwards, things got colorful and cheerful with the French niche fragrance house Maison Matine. The brand stands for a young, clear signature without opulent staging and instead relies on vegan formulas, recyclable packaging and an independent visual language characterized by international illustrators.
- Maison Matine – Scented rebels with format
- Origine Collection by Maison Matine – Warni Warni, Esprit de Contradiction and Bain de Midi
- Refresh Collection by Maison Matine: Nature Insolente, Poom Poom and Lost in Translation
- Voyager Collection by Maison Matine: Tu te Calmes, Arashi no Umi and Ukhu Pacha
Another fragrance that fits perfectly into the cooler season is Lucid Dream by Reinvented Parfums. I described the creation in my article as – in my eyes – one of the best new launches of 2025 and I still stand by that. An irresistible, creamy, leathery and fruity-spicy composition for all those who love cozy autumn-winter fragrances.
Oudian by Pernoire was polarizing due to an unusual ingredient. The composition combines notes of the stinky fruit durian with oud and fruity accents, resulting in an exotic-animalic mix that is as unusual as it is idiosyncratic. An olfactory statement for anyone who wants to stand out.
At the end of September, we embarked on yet another adventure. With the Estoras brand, we followed in the footsteps of Prince Antal Esterházy, who crossed the Sahara in an Austrian Steyr with his friend Count Lászlo Almásy in the 1920s, in Estoras – The Adventures of Young Antal and Port of Alexandria, Shadows of Giza and Shores of Asyut from Estoras – The Adventures of Young Antal.
September ended with the review of It’s a Match-A by versatile, a stunningly creamy green tea fragrance with fruity blueberry, nutty pistachio and milky sweetness. Perfect for all fans of (green) tea fragrances who love something special. Simply irresistibly delicious!
October 2025
October was characterized by many individual reviews. It all started with Coro and Purple Accento by Xerjoff, two new highlights from the brand’s Vibe Collection, which brought colorful facets and a touch of summer into autumn. Perfect for anyone who prefers tropical-fruity and aquatic-floral creations with a twist.
The Time Nomad Collection by Simone Andreoli was up next: Criminal Lipstick dipped the fragrance diary first in fruity-creamy and dark woody notes – very sensual, seductive and elegant – to then present us with Apricot Innocence and Kite in Crystal Reef, a charming apricot creation and an aquatic-fruity freshie. All three are highly recommended!
I contrasted two fragrances from Room 1015 in my next review: Electric Wood Extrait vs Electric Wood Eau de Parfum revealed two very different sides of a fragrance theme, both beautifully realized. Personally, I was particularly taken with the extrait, which I warmly recommend to you.
There were also three new creations from Trudon on the blog in October 2025: the Nuit Rouge Collection from the traditional French brand delighted me with the fragrances Mystique, 45° and Midnight Omen. Vanilla fans should take note of the Eau de Parfum 45°, which combines exquisite bourbon vanilla with honey, citrus fruits and creamy, woody nuances. Absolutely delicious!
And it continued with vanilla: Madagascar Le Baume Vanille by Parfums d’Empire was the hit of the 2025 fall/winter season and a fragrance that caused quite a stir. The liqueur-like, spicy composition based around a Madagascan vanilla drink is also simply too beautiful – almost too good to be true.
Last year, Zarkoperfume launched two new fragrances inspired by the Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov family: Carate Urio olfactorily captures the Mediterranean notes around Lake Como – a tribute to daughter Olivia – while Dreamer is intended to reflect the personality of son Isak with maritime-molecular and light-woody facets.
I also had the pleasure of reviewing two new creations from Jean Poivre: Sounds like a Melody and Lost in Moon River enchant with marzipan-liqueur sweet cherry, spicy saffron and caramel-creamy vanilla sweetness, bedded on ambery suede as well as creamy-floral, light-powdery and clean notes. Two very different compositions that you should definitely try.
In the next article, we traveled to Oman: Kashmir Print and Ever Lit by Ojar were the star guests of the review and I was particularly impressed by the first fragrance. Spicy-floral and creamy-fresh, Kashmir Print was an oriental-inspired, clean musk interpretation of the finest cashmere wool. Just to my taste! Ever Lit combined tart-fruity, coniferous-woody and creamy nuances to create an elegant and modern freshie that could easily pass as an all-rounder.
French fragrance house The Different Company was also represented on the blog in October with the two new launches Love is coming … Chapter II and Azhi Ardara. The former was a fruity-floral interpretation of the color green with exciting tomato and bell pepper accents, while the blue Azhi Ardara rounds off a powerful raspberry note with spices, woods and earthy-powdery facets.
We devoted ourselves to the next vanilla in an article on Mancera: Xplicit Vanilla and Intense Instant Crush were as contrasting as two fragrances can be. Xplicit Vanilla was dark, spicy and slightly liqueur-like, with cocoa, subtle oud accents and creamy, woody warmth – an elegant fall and winter companion. Intense Instant Crush, on the other hand, started off cool and striking with bergamot, saffron and leather, before caramel, musk and sandalwood provided a pleasantly spicy depth.
The Swedish label Pana Dora Sweden then took us to Scandinavia with its creation Skadi. Dedicated to the Nordic goddess of the hunt, the eau de parfum presents itself as a fresh, clear and rather cool fragrance that combines citrusy-fruity, smoky-creamy notes. Quiet, restrained and Scandinavian-minimalist – an all-rounder for every occasion and every season.
October ended on a warm and cozy note. In keeping with the season, we continued with soft, cozy compositions that gradually heralded the start of the Advent season. Kashmir by Imperial Parfums was the first: a gourmand, fruity and creamy creation that combines pear, vanilla and honey and is reminiscent of fine cashmere wool. Wonderfully realized and beautiful to fall in love with!
The Italian fragrance house Gritti was also represented again in October. With Muskaria and Vanilla Tanà, I not only presented you with the last vanilla of the month, but also a stunning and creamy-spicy musk fragrance. I can recommend both compositions to you without reservation.
October ended with the review of Pizzuta by Olfattology. The fragrance is inspired by the noble Pizzuta almond and revealed powdery-crystalline, creamy and milky-comforting nuances, very light, clean and transparent. A calm and elegant almond fragrance that is quiet and restrained.
With November and December, this olfactory review enters its final round – with wintery notes, festive accents and some very special fragrance moments to round off the year.
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