May and June marked the start of the 2025 fragrance year for me – albeit in very different ways. May was a month of individual encounters: lots of independent reviews, lots of different moods, lots of little olfactory journeys. June, on the other hand, shifted the focus. Collections came to the fore, as did discussions and interviews that gave the fragrances context and provided a look behind the scenes.
May 2025
The month of May kicked off with Cowboy Grass by D.S. & Durga, bringing a breath of fresh air from the Wild West to the fragrance diary. What started out light and airy, however, quickly took a completely different direction with the new Extrait Extrême Collection from BORNTOSTANDOUT: loud, powerful and uncompromising. In addition to Black Guava and Black Mango, Oud Candy and Purple Stain also made it unmistakably clear that restraint was not an issue here.
Then it continued in quick succession. Melogold and Cotton by Widian set woody-powdery fruity accents as well as enveloping, creamy-floral nuances, while Église de Velours by Pierre Guillaume deliberately did not promise a classic incense fragrance and kept this promise. Lavender fans are likely to have enjoyed Purple Mémoire by Floris, and Golden Amber by the traditional British house also impressed with its citrusy, creamy floral and maritime facets.
Because it was an obvious and thematically fitting idea, D.S. & Durga was represented once again in May. With Big Sur Eucalyptus, the US label took us to the American west coast, or more precisely to the Big Sur region with its characteristic eucalyptus trees. Cozy, almost intimate moments followed with the eau de parfum Blindfold and the scented candle Mamounia No. 28 by L’Objet. Anyone who appreciates velvety, powdery-creamy suede fragrances should keep an eye on the eau de parfum in particular.
Childhood memories were the inspiration for Kurky by Maison Francis Kurkdjian – a surprisingly playful, gourmand and fruity fragrance with a sweet lightness that was cheerful, carefree and comforting, making it perfect for the warmer months of the year. Also Tulua by Kinetic Perfumes ft. fragrance bunker took a summery direction: Citrus fruits, creamy blossoms and clean woods painted the picture of a warm vacation day on the Amalfi Coast.
The eau de parfum Policromia by Bois 1920 was both visually and olfactorily exciting, combining fruity, floral and maritime-salty nuances and appearing both colorful and harmonious. With Cerana and Ambre Cristal by Nectar Olfactif, the brand showed two very different but equally subtle sides in May. While Cerana combined elegant, dark and slightly glamorous mango with oud and floral accents, Ambre Cristal relied on a transparent, softly drawn spicy ambra that gives warmth and volume rather than olfactory power – quiet, balanced and unisex wearable.
The month ended with Hakuna Matata by 27 87 Perfumes, a sunny, carefree eau de parfum with banana accords, lush floral creaminess and a fine honey sweetness. Fun-loving and adventurous, yet harmonious and surprisingly elegant, the fragrance felt like a little vacation on the skin – just at the right moment.
June 2025
June opened with Mahaba and Samaha by Anfas – two light, elegant fragrances that impress with their transparency, restraint and modern lightness. This was followed by the first interview of the month. In a conversation with Herbert Stricker, he provided personal insights into his work and talked about the origins and background of his collaboration with Pana Dora Sweden, among other things. I then presented the joint fragrance in the article Stricker – The Gentle Oriental by Pana Dora Sweden.
This was followed by a two-part interview with IGGYWOO founder Richard Saint-Ford, which also marked the start of an extensive series of reviews of all IGGYWOO fragrances released to date, which I list below:
- IGGYWOO – Between fantasy, memory and rebellion – Interview Part II
- Cashmere Show Pony and Bohemian Water by IGGYWOO – Olfactory daydreams
- Flower Boy and Fantasma Overglow from IGGYWOO – Between light and shadow
- Love Extreme and Night Narcotic by IGGYWOO – Love and Vice
And because all good things come in threes, a third interview followed in June. The interview with Dr. Mike from Room 1015 was about the background and the idea behind the new creation Love-O-Matic. This was immediately followed by the review Love-O-Matic by Room 1015 – Lovestory im Schleudergang, in which I also took a closer look at the olfactory aspects of the new creation.
June ended with Melos by pernoire, an eau de parfum inspired by Cleopatra’s beauty ritual, which combines spices, flowers, fruits and woods with fine honey. Darker, spicier and earthier than expected, the composition impressed with its depth, presence and excellent longevity – an independent interpretation of the honey theme that can be worn all year round.
In the next part of this review, which covers July and August, I will tell you how the fragrance year 2025 developed into midsummer.
Be First to Comment