The new Transcendence Collection from Gravel with the four extraits de parfum Eau D’Ominance, Eau D’Aspiration, Eau D’Esire and Eau D’Evolution is the topic of this week’s fragrance blog. In my last posts, I have already talked in detail about the collection and its significance for the traditional brand: a change of direction that – after the careful restoration of the brand and the classics from the Michael Knudsen era – seemed only logical. One thing was clear: a new chapter had to be opened at some point. The four fragrances mentioned above mark this transition. They were created in collaboration with renowned perfumers from LUZI, a Swiss fragrance manufacturer. The two articles The new Transcendence Collection by Gravel – David Chieze in an interview and Eau D’Ominance by Gravel – The essence of strength already give you a good overview of the Gravel fragrance house, the Transcendence Collection and the first fragrance Eau D’Ominance.
Today we turn our attention to Mirella Pomina, who created the extrait de parfum Eau D’Esire for Gravel. The perfumer is known for her finely balanced, often multi-layered compositions. In our interview, she talks about olfactory childhood memories and the creative process behind Eau D’Esire – a fragrance that revolves around desire.
Dear Mirella, could you tell us a little about yourself and how you found your way into the world of perfumery?
I’ve always been fascinated by the world of plants – the scent of crushed leaves between my fingers, the spicy aroma of dried herbs, the blooming flowers in my garden. For me, these were little olfactory stories told by nature. Eventually, I found my way into perfumery through a small Swiss cosmetics manufacturer and began my journey as a trainee at LUZI.
What inspires you – both in life and in your creative work as a perfumer?
Inspiration can come from anywhere: travel, foreign cultures, a walk in the woods, or a flower market where all the scents mix in a beautiful chaotic way. At the same time, I am often deeply moved and inspired by people and their diversity and expressiveness.
What was the creative process behind Eau D’Esire like? Where did it all begin for you?
For me, the creative process is always a blend of art, chemistry, and storytelling. We worked with a mood board – filled with colors, images, and words to bring the concept to life. Together with our fragrance design manager, we developed the idea for Eau D’Esire step by step.
What fascinated you about the concept of Eau D’Esire – a fragrance designed to capture desire?
Desire is one of the most powerful human drives. It’s such a complex feeling – sweet and bitter, wild and tender. I was immediately fascinated by its depth. I wanted to create something that mirrored this duality – a kind of emotional landscape.
And which raw materials best embody desire for you?
There’s no a single ingredient that smells purely of desire, but some materials carry that emotional tone strongly. Iris, for instance – powdery, cool, and elegant – has a certain untouchable melancholy. Frankincense and myrrh evoke a spiritual, meditative aura – like gazing into the distance. And then there’s labdanum – warm, resinous, slightly animalic – like a memory of intimacy that has passed.
Was there a specific image or scene that guided you during the creation?
This scent conjures the image of a crisp morning, serene and full of promise. My gaze drifts across the sea – calm, full of promise, yet filled with yearning for the warmth of the coming summer day. The fragrance captures this interplay: between elegance and passion, cool clarity and exotic depth. It’s a dance of contrasts, carried by emotion and memory.
How would you describe Eau D’Esire in your own words?
To me, it feels like a wide open land under a quiet horizon. It has a cool, clear structure – almost mineral, like a vast sky. At the same time, it’s modern but grounded. Elegant, but never slick. It’s a fragrance that moves between intimacy and distance – and that’s exactly what makes it so fascinating.
What makes Eau D’Esire special to you personally?
The balance – between emotional depth and futuristic clarity. The fragrance shifts perspectives and remains adaptable, like an inner dialogue that is never fully resolved.
“This creation is built on olfactive contrasts – warmth and cold, past and future, classic elegance with a touch of lightness. I imagined a traveler between worlds, carrying fragments of both.”
What kind of atmosphere does the fragrance evoke – and what do you hope people feel when they wear it?
I believe it creates a sense of cool clarity touched by sensual warmth. It evolves, it changes with the wearer – like a journey. My hope is that people who wear Eau D’Esire will feel unique. That they feel their own memories and possibilities on their skin.
Finally – how do you see the future of perfumery?
We’re at a turning point – technologically, creatively, and emotionally. Today’s consumers want to know what they’re wearing. Issues such as sourcing, sustainability, and ethics are gaining importance. Upcycled ingredients, biotech molecules, and transparent declarations are becoming key. Perfumery is transforming into a form of artistic expression. We’ll see more limited editions, collaborations, and experimental formats – including installations, exhibitions, and even virtual reality experiences.
Do you have a tip for anyone searching for a new fragrance?
Take your time. Wear the scent for a few hours. Then ask yourself: What do I need right now? Courage? Comfort? Clarity? Fragrances can help us connect with something that resonates within – or with something we may be missing.
Dear Mirella, thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions.
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