The history of Gravel was not straightforward and that is precisely what makes it so exciting. A brand that was first successful, then disappeared, only to return all the more impressively later. It all began in the 1950s with a man who became a perfumer by chance: Michael Knudsen, a Swedish-born actor, bon vivant and aesthete, created one of the first consistently masculine fragrances with A Man’s Cologne – in an era when perfume for men was still barely conceivable. The transparent bottle with the pebbles became a cult object and Gravel a legend.
After Knudsen’s death, the brand almost completely disappeared from the scene until it was revived by Christian Blessing. In the first few years, the focus was on one thing above all: preserving Knudsen’s olfactory heritage. Blessing carefully brought back the original Gravel creations, modernizing them minimally without changing their character – with great respect and sensitivity.
But at some point, every revived brand comes to the point where the question arises: Where do we go from here? With the Transcendence Collection, Gravel now has an answer. For the first time, the fragrance house is going its own creative way, moving away from pure archive work and opening up to new perspectives. Four fragrances are the result of this change of direction: Eau D’Ominance, Eau D’Aspiration, Eau D’Esire and Eau D’Evolution. The Transcendence Collection has a programmatic name. It sees itself as a conscious movement beyond the familiar – not bold, not sensational, but focused and self-confident.
Eau D’Ominance – Leather, Oud & Salt
I would like to take a closer look at the first of these four fragrances today. Eau D’Ominance is the first work by perfumer David Chieze for Gravel. In yesterday’s article The new Transcendence Collection by Gravel – David Chieze in an interview, you were able to find out more about him, his working methods and the creation of Eau D’Ominance. It is said to be a creation that revolves around the theme of dominance and strength. “A tribute to powerful presence, raw elegance and sensual intensity. A fragrance for characters who go their own way, challenge convention and dominate the world according to their own rules.” For the extrait de parfum, the perfumer combined the fragrance notes of pink pepper, mandarin, bergamot, salty notes, leather, violet, musk, vetiver, eaglewood (oud), oakmoss and ambroxan.
“I imagined a piece of heavy leather washed up on the beach and slowly drying in the sun, forming a salty crust. This fragrance combines some of my favorite notes – that’s why it’s very personal to me. It has substance and texture without ever being overpowering.” – David Chieze
Eau D’Ominance begins dark and edgy. Pepper and citrus fruits create a dry, spicy and tangy-fresh opening, which is initially characterized by smoky, woody, leathery and deep black oud notes. However, the composition soon changes. The darkness gradually recedes and what remains is a transparent, light and woody-powdery fragrance, infused with fine leather notes and a gentle saltiness – without any maritime hints, I would like to emphasize. The oud permeates the creation with subtle, smoky facets, accompanied by silvery, shimmering, powdery-soft and molecular notes that provide lightness and airiness.
As powerful and expressive as Eau D’Ominance starts out, the extrait de parfum is as subtle, harmonious and beautifully composed as it progresses. As David Chieze said so beautifully yesterday: “Dominance is not synonymous with volume – it’s about presence, about that certain something that you feel before you see or hear it.” That’s exactly what I perceive when I test it. Eau D’Ominance impresses with its unagitated strength, a natural sovereignty that does not come across as pleasing, but not provocative either. It is carried by powdery, woody nuances, a fine, leathery saltiness and a quiet, profound expressiveness. The oud remains discreetly in the background, has a unifying effect and gives the creation structure and longevity. Eau D’Ominance is modern, classic and unisex – a stylish, present extrait de parfum that is suitable for everyday wear and the office. Ideal for anyone who appreciates woody, powdery creations with a delicate note of salty leather. A strong start to this special new line from Gravel.
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