Some brands initially sound like an insider tip. Until you realize that they have long been an established name among niche fragrance connoisseurs. Anfas is one such case. It is a comparatively young fragrance house from the United Arab Emirates that has attracted a lot of attention in a short space of time, without making any grand gestures. The two creations Mahaba and Samaha also fit seamlessly into the brand’s previous creations – self-confident, multi-layered and deeply rooted in its cultural identity.
Anfas – Take a deep breath
The name Anfas – Arabic for “inhale” or “immerse” – is more than just a melodious word, but is intended to reflect the fact that the fragrances are symbols of emotions, history and identity. Behind the brand is Asim Al Qassim, the first officially certified perfumer in the region. What he has created with Anfas is not a nostalgic homage to the Arabian fragrance tradition, but a contemporary interpretation of its cultural heritage. It is not about oud for oud’s sake, not about pleasing rose notes without substance. Instead, Anfas takes familiar motifs such as smoke, spices and flowers and translates them into an olfactory language with an internationally successful aesthetic.
The bottles are heavy, gold-colored and shaped like traditional mabkhara – ornately decorated vessels for burning incense. They already give a visual indication of what you are getting into with a fragrance from Anfas. It is all about power, complexity and yet there is still room for quiet, almost poetic nuances. The fragrances are concentrated, long-lasting, present and possess a seductive depth that cannot be taken for granted in today’s perfumery.
Mahaba – tenderness that has become fragrance
Mahaba is the Arabic word for love, affection, deep connection. But it encompasses more than just romantic feelings. Mahaba also describes the quiet warmth between friends, the care within the family, the sincere cordiality in everyday life. It is no coincidence that Anfas chose this word as the name. It is not about fleeting infatuation, but about something lasting. A feeling that does not impose itself, but unfolds slowly, quietly, gently, but with depth. Anfas already launched a creation called Mahaba in 2017, but with completely different fragrance notes. In this review, I am referring to the extrait de parfum from 2025, which combines the ingredients lemon, mandarin, orange, neroli, bergamot, juniper, lavender, ginger, nut, rose, incense, leather, eaglewood (oud), musk, vanilla, ambergris and sandalwood.
Mahaba begins with a bright, almost cologne-like opening. Citrus fruits in all their facets – from tangy to sweet, from delicately sour to slightly tart – open the fragrance with a vitalizing freshness. It is an opening that invigorates, that tingles, but is never too shrill. Shortly afterwards, woody juniper joins in, accompanied by a hint of lavender that lends the composition a herbaceous lightness. Gradually, Mahaba slips into softer nuances. A nutty, powdery sweetness covers the citrus freshness like a fine veil, while cool incense, gentle rose notes and creamy accents add depth. As the fragrance progresses, leather and oud take the lead – reserved, almost whispering – and lend the base darker, resinous-woody nuances without displacing the light underlying mood.
Mahaba is never heavy, never oppressive. It is an airy, light-flooded fragrance that brings citrus fruits, flowers, woods and resins into a finely tuned, harmonious balance. A fragrance that seduces with lightness, but never becomes arbitrary. Not the typical oriental that you might expect from Anfas, but rather a sensual refreshment with character. Ideal for warmer days, wearable on almost any occasion. I would classify the presence as medium, but the longevity is convincing. Perfect for anyone who loves fresh, elegant fragrances with citrus fruits, oud and lavender.
Samaha – The fragrant art of giving
In Arabic, samaha means generosity, kindness and forbearance. But there is more to this word: an attitude, a quiet, inner greatness that is perceived almost unconsciously. Samaha describes the admirable ability to give with an open heart without expecting anything in return. It is the kind of kindness that is not staged, but arises from a quiet conviction, serene, dignified, imbued with warmth. As a fragrance name, Samaha is of course also a deliberate choice by the Anfas brand. Just as the term means more than its literal translation, the fragrance also tells more than a linear story. Samaha evokes “the grace of silence. The warmth of memory. The calm breath of a past that was never really gone.” Anfas translates all of this into an extrait de parfum using the ingredients bergamot, rose, grapefruit, lavender, jasmine, iris, pink pepper, leather, carrot, ginger, incense, vetiver, patchouli, musk and ambergris.
Samaha also begins with a clear, citrusy opening that immediately exudes lightness. However, creamy-sweet carrot notes quickly come into play, paired with dry pepper and powdery iris. Ginger adds freshness and a fruity spiciness that elegantly underlines the citrus character. In the background, floral accents of jasmine slowly unfold, accompanied by cool incense and earthy patchouli. Musk and vetiver provide depth, while a soft leather note discreetly rounds off the smoky, woody nuances.
Samaha is also not a classic oriental. Instead of opulent spice and dark resins, it offers a finely balanced composition, light, creamy, powdery and surprisingly transparent. A fragrance with character, but without heaviness. Wearable in everyday life, restrained enough for the office and yet so elegant and timeless that it can be worn in both summer and winter. A modern companion for every occasion.
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